For a good body shop to fix that I can see $5k. Mine wasn't anywhere near as bad an I was quoted $2k-$3k. They would probably cut all of the old rusted metal out and make up and weld new metal in. Throw in some paint work and installing the rear window it is a lot of work.

Their is a seam back their that seems to be rusted out as well, cutting that stuff out is a big job. You could try and find a junked W126 with a clean track below the rear window and swap them out.

If you want a faster fix grind the heck out of it and get rid of as much of the rust as you can. Then POR it to stop the rust and use some copper flashing to build the lip back up. Use some good oil point as well.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

This is what we have done, today we ground all the rust off with a rotozip and stone grinding bit, then the rotozip broke. First time we used it, ever!!! So out came trusty dremel, finished the job perfectly, though a little slower. Then we got some sheet metal and have been cutting out sections that match what we ground out/whats missing, and we're JBwelding them in, all rust has/will be treated with rust killer/primer compounds and then we'll coat it in some super heavy strong paint or something. Needless to say, the rust is going to meet its end once and for all. (We hope)

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Just for grins...check out this item on Ebay....interesting that it should come up at just this time, although from the UK:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4563389335&category=31355&rd=1

It's W126, but doesn't mention SD, but then again, it's the UK....

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

We need that!!!!

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

There is a big question of standards here, what do you want? Do you want something that is safe in an accident or just something to fill the hole where the window goes so you can push that star up the road?

I had to laugh at the truth of this:

...........and since its the most important failing of these cars, getting a rust free panel is like striking oil.

"Repair shops see the MB star and dollar signs light up in their eyes."
This used to be a real problem years ago, I do not beleive that it is a big problem today, Honda, Ford or MB, they will light up their eyes equally.
This past Decebmer I finally decided to take my 240D 77 for major body work, it had become a rust buckett (I live in Houston), the door bottoms were pretty much gone, the floors were opening up, lots of rust under the front windshield gaskett and a leaky Sears battery had taken care of the metal all the way down to the Jack support area. Also water was pouring into the trunk and I assumed that this was caused by rust at the frame. With this much rust I was faced with two options, either junk the car or fix it, I decided to fix the car simply because it had a new motor. The entire affair including a complete pait job cost me 4.4K.
I contacted several body shops, most showed no interest & advised me to junk the car. One shop offered to do the job for 2.2K, Ibut did not want a bondo job so I went with the expensive body shop, it took them a total of three months to complete the work, the car was stripped to the bone, the new floor boards were all welded plates to ensure structural unity of the body.
One lesson learned from all this is that rust can be fixed if you are willing to pay for it, but if you see rust, that is the tip of the iceberg, expect a lot more down below once you open up the area.

Vahe
240d 77 350K

If you got all that rust repaired and the entire vehicle painted for $4.4K, and they did quality work, then you got a steal.

Just to paint a vehicle with proper prep and a high quality paint costs $3K for a good job. You can spend quite a bit more for additional perfection.

I fully expect to spend $3k-$4k to paint my car. And I will do a bit of the prep work as well. Throw in another $1k to have the metal cleaned up and new door and window seals.

Good body work is not cheap. Junk body work is usually pretty cheap though.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

So far JBweld and pieces of sheet metal have led to a very nice job on the rear window, my dad has been rebuilding it slowly with metal pieces JBwelded in, its working very well....that JBweld is SO strong! We're nearing the final stages of work, just a little more JB weld and then a final painting/rust treatment and it should be good for the window to go back in, and hopefully it will be good to go for at least a number of years. I'll take some pics in a day or two to show how we fixed it.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

You aren't kidding....their timing could't have been better...shame it wasn't in the USA, shiptting that would cost a fortune.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

If you took a mid '70s Honda or Ford to a body shop for the type of repair that you describe they probably wouldn't waste their time making a real estimate. They may give you a ridiculous price to see if they could part a fool and his money.

Body shops have to stand behind their work or be sued for it. They cannot do shortcut "cheap jobs" and stay in business.

We're approaching the final stages of reconstruction A little more JBweld and then some rust protector/paint/top coat of paint and it will be all set. Total amount of JB Weld used: 18oz Amount of sheet metal: approx 9 separate pieces I'll post some pictures tomorrow evening showing what it looks like painted....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

i havent seen a better documentation of rust damage since dr ballards pics of the bismarck. seriously though if the car is a keeper consider welding in new metal.a small mig welder can be rented cheaply and the panel can be cut from a donor.

More Documentation! The repair is going well, we're in the final stages of painting and finishing up the surfaces, next monday the window goes back in.

Pics galore:















(More on the next page of the thread.....)

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