Since you will be changing filters anyway along with removing the tank screen, fill it up to the top after adding the biocide. Otherwise you will never get rid of the critters at the top of the tank. If it's so bad as to completely clog the tank screen, break out the siphon hose then remove the tank screen. If the problem has gotten so bad that it cloggs up filters rather quickly and more then one, you probably need to remove the tank for real cleaning.

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'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

IRG,

Why not do as the biobor instructions specify: Add 1/2 oz. of Biocor to 20 gallons of fuel. This way the biocide will remain in the tank longer and get thru the entire fuel system to kill the fungus whereever it may lurk.

I had a fungus problem bad enough to plug the fuel tank strainer, but I didn't have to throw away any fuel or replace any filters after I added 1/2 oz. Biocor to 20 gallons and now I am on my second 20 gallons with 1/4 oz Biocor added and still no problems with plugged filters.

I plan on adding 1/4 oz. Biocor to every 20 gallons except when I use the car for long trips like when I go to Vegas and back. When I return home, I will continue to use Biocor until I'm sure there is no more fungus in my fuel system.

P E H

That's the way to do it. When in doubt, follow the directions.

__________________
'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

PEH,
I agree about following directions. However, if the algae/fungus is really bad then the tank needs to be drained. Filling the tank to then just drain it is a waste. My suggestion was in the context of a bad infestation and draining the tank so as to get the worst of it out then do a more proper full tank shock dose (as instructed) and hopefully save yourself about a half a dozen filters. Of course if the infestation is mild then draining the tank is probably unnecessary.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Virtual,
Thanks for the dissertation. It was very informative. It brings up a question, however. F-14s fly on JP-4 or JP-5 which is basically kerosene. Why don't home heating systems in the East or southern parts of the states suffer from this problem. When I lived in Virginia many years ago, I had an oil burning furnance. I had a large storage tank that was refilled periodically. I don't recall having any problems. Can anybody add to this?

Old Navy,
So you got your surface warfare tech badge. I used to hang out with the Quarter Masters sometimes. As a Missile Fire Control Technician I didn't have anything to do in port so the QMs would let me stand their anchor dragging watches for them. They taught me how to take relative bearings during the watch and plot the chart to alert the OD if we were dragging anchor. They got time off and it gave me something to do. I didn't go on the beach during many port calls, because there are only so many times you can visit the Mediteranian Ports of France, Spain, Greece, Malta, Gibralter, Turkey, Italy, Crete, Sicily, etc. At sea the QMs taught me to shoot stars and drop sun lines. I also spent some time with the Snipes who taught me how to descale a boiler. A guided missile cruiser with over a thousand men aboard is like a floating city. The only thing bigger is a birdfarm (carrier).


Fair winds and following seas,
Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Autozen,

You have to get contaminated fuel that has the fungus in it. In 35 years driving Diesels, I only ever had the problem in one car, my 80 300SD. That car has been in every state except HI, so it could have gotten contaminated fuel almost anywhere.

Stationery fuel tanks do get fungus growth in them if contaminated fuel is put in them. Same biocide treatment is needed to kill the fungus.

If you always get fungus free fuel, you will not have any fungus in your fuel system to grow. But once you get cantaminated fuel only a biocide will kill it.
The reason the problem is more prevalent in the south is because of the warmer humid weather. Almost all bacteria/virus/fungus grow and multiply faster in warmer and more humid conditions.

P E H

PEH,

You've answered a lot of my questions. Apparently fungus doesn't show up like fruit flies. Because of the high humidity in the South it is a good idea to get a shot regularly to be sure you don't get the clap. This latter statement reflects why we don't take any preventive measures in the west. Am I correct on these assumptions?

Thanks,
Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

You can develop the problem in a sitting tank, if it has contact with warm moist air. The good news is most retailers have the biocide added to the fuel mix prior to delivery to their stores or dristribution centers. I noticed one of the things done once when I had my furnance serviced before start of heating system in VA was the guy added biocide to the tank. It wasn't on the sales ticket, but was just a part of the regular pre winter service.

Also WVO and bio-diesel are very prone to growth of crap in the tanks.

__________________
'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.