|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
240D manual to 300D manual conversion
Ok, I've got the 300D in place but the rear transmission mount doesn't fit the bolt holes, and the driveshaft is about 4 inches too long. So, I shoved the 240D to the side while I look for an easy (cheap) way out.
Then I get involved in switching out the automatic trans on the 79 300SD with a parts car that I picked up at the salvage auction. Hmmmm... interesting.... the transmission mount out of the 79 300SD has 4 bolts going into the frame instead of two and big huge slots for transmission position adjustment. And, the driveshaft looks like looks like it is about 4 inches shorter. Can anyone think of a reason why this isn't going to be my cheap and easy solution???? The rear transmission mount looks like it will be much easier to modify than the one out of the 240D. I bring this up, because someone here (sorry, I forget who) said I would have to pay a hundred Plus bucks to get the old driveshaft shortened. Did I stumble onto a good solution?
__________________
Richard "Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude" |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Too bad you didn't search the Forum first. There's a pretty good write-up about swapping to a manual transmission.
__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Actually, I'm not converting to a manual transmission. The car already was a manual transmission. I'm just putting in a 300D that came out of a manual transmission car. Since the motor is longer, it moves the transmission rear mount and requires the driveline to be shortened as well as the linkage from the shifter. I searched and found info from someone who had done this. His description included taking the driveline to a shop and having it shortened and balanced for a hundred plus bucks. I just happened to notice that the driveshaft out of my 79 300SD W116 chassis seems to be the right length to work in a W123 chassis with the 300D and the manual transmission. If the the splines on the driveshaft are the same, it should work. I'll know as soon as I get my 300SD off of the lift.
I just wanted to let everyone know that they might be able to save the bucks required for steps 24 and 25 of your post. Driveshafts from W116 300SDs are possibly easier to find than driveshafts from manual transmission W123s.
__________________
Richard "Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude" |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
That also is available already posted... Ben Ridge did it...and several others... very specific advice posted about the upgrade to 5 cylinders...
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
yep, already read all his stuff... He's the one who said you need to have your driveshaft shortened for 125 bucks.
My question is if anyone knows whether or not a 79 300SD driveshaft will work. I measured one and it is about 5 inches shorter than the 240D driveshaft. As soon as I can get the car back on the lift, I'll try it. In the meantime, I thought someone here might know. Couldn't find anything in the archive about this.
__________________
Richard "Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude" |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I would love to do a W116 manual conversion.......but I am not a trailblazer as I don't have easy access to all the parts most of you guys do.
MMMMMMMMM 1979 300SD 5-speed.......that would be so cool.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
i know from my recent 280c manual to 300cd turbo manual conversion that the coupes driveshaft will work without modification.
don |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I'm having a hard time making myself clear here it would seem.
A) I'm not converting anything to manual. The 240D already was a manual, and the 300D I put in it also came out of a manual. Unfortunately, I don't have the driveshaft from the 300D so I need a shorter driveshaft than what the 240D has because the engine is longer and pushes the transmission back about 4 inches. The documented way to do this according to the archive is to just take the 240D driveshaft in and have it shortened and balanced for about 125 bucks according to Ben Ridge's post. I was planning to do this.. but stopped working on the car till I get around to it. B) My 79 300SD (W116) has a new engine, but the transmission slips in high. I am only trying to replace the automatic in it with another one. I found a wrecked 300SD at the local salvage auction and bought it for the transmission. After I pulled the engine and tranny from the wrecked 300SD, I noticed that the driveshaft was 5 inches shorter than the 240D driveshaft that is waiting to be shortened. It would seem that this might work instead of shortening the 240D's driveshaft. I couldn't find any mention in the archive of anybody having tried this before, so I thought someone might be able to tell me here that it would work. That's what this thread is about.
__________________
Richard "Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude" |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
We are simple folks here....and you included some extra visual images...so we got confused....
There is a chance that will work. Are the connection methods for the front of the shaft and the output of the transmissions the same ? Both use the flex disc ? etc..? How close did you measure that 5 inches.... ? You said ' about' earlier.... hopefully it is closer to 4 inches... Ridge said the difference in the shift linkages was exactly 4 inches I believe....so I would assume this is also the magic number further back in the system.... On old regular cars it would be less problem if there really is a one inch difference from one to the other..... as they used slip yokes to let the wheels move up and down... but with the MB system you have a critical distance on the front and rear driveshafts which may not allow you to interchange them. Looks like you will be the pioneer on this one.... |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Richard "Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude" |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Just in case you missed something...
The 300D driveshaft is 4" shorter than the 240D unit, and is the ideal shaft for converting a 240D to a 5 cylinder. It's what I'm using in my 240D OM617.952 conversion. The 300D crossmember also bolts up. Remember, the 240D and 300D share the same chassis, so most of the bolt-up stuff will swap.
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Old300d, Well, were you just letting us sweat.... or did you just run across this thread ? LOL
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I have a manual 300D, I could measure something if you think it would help.
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I also happen to have both drivelines in my garage. However I steered clear because I am using automatic trannies, and I don't know if the driveshafts are compatible with manual trannies. So there are a lot of variables at work. But if a 116 shaft fits, maybe the regular 300D auto driveshaft will as well. My impression is all the driveshafts are all the same to the rear end, the differences are in the front half.
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
Bookmarks |
|
|