I am to the point of trying to get the timing chain off. I have looked for a master link and I have found none. Does the original timing chain have a master link? The strange thing is the bolt will turn for a about a 1/4 turn then the resistance gets read hard. This is without Injectors installed. I then tap the starter and the engine turns over with no problem. I repeat the 1/4 turn sequence and the bolt won't turn again. Anybody ever have that happen to them? What am I missing?

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83 300D
84 190D

No master link, and you don't have to remove the chain anyway. Set engine to TDC on #1 compression stroke, wire the cam sproket to the chain at that location, remove cam bolt, and pull sprocket off the cam. Leave the chain alone, if you want to replace it, pull a new one in after you get the new head on.

Remove the starter and see if that fixed the stiffness (on the driver's side from underneath, two large bolts, wires on the front under the brake booster/IP area). If so, you need to inspect the flywheel. If not, check the vac pump bearings.

Make sure you are rotating engine in the normal direction (clockwise looking at the front of the engine!), else the chain is likely binding.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

THere is some difficulty relative to the vacuum pump. Psfred is right about the timing chain wiring to the sproket, but do not forget to remove any guides that are connected to the head (my recollection is that there is one up there).Also, don't forget that each time you turn, you are moving the valves against the springs which also requires some force.

Don't forget to tighten in the proper sequence when replacing the head and when refilling the coolant, make sure that you introduce coolant into the engine through the upper coolant hose so that you do not end up with a large air bubble in the enging, and all of coolant in the radiator and tank.

I have removed the head on the 601 2 times (both almost 200kmi ago) to fix a leak at the place where the block and the front cover meet. I used the wrong sealant for the front block cover and had to redo the job. All of this was over 10 years ago. No probs since.

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Jovan

'84 (11/83) 190D 2.2 5-Speed; Silver/Blue; Motor No. 00354, 402k mi (340+kmi mine)

'89 Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe; Black/Black; 53kmi
'05 BMW 530i 6-Speed; 302kmi
'19 Range Rover; 30kmi

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there is a manditory sequense for cam removal on a 601. All other 60X engines require this. If not followed to the letter, MB says the cam will break, or bend, rendering it usless!

How hard is it to get the head off. I have removed all the bolts, plus the timing chain is off. I remembered the 2 bolts up front and the 2 bolts holding the fuel filter. I'm not sure where to pry on the head to break the head loose and the head being aluminum scares the hell out of me. All I want to do is change the head gasket, but I don't want to break anything doing it. I have one of those CD manuals, but so far it hasn’t been a lot of help.

While I have the head off I am going to check the head for flatness. I only have 100lbs compression in cylinder 1, 470lbs in cylinder 2 and 360lbs in cylinder 3, & 370lbs in cylinder 4.

Thanks for the help

Bill

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83 300D
84 190D

A chunk of wood in the intake or exhaust ports, pry upwards works will. Do not use a steel hammer to break it loose! If you feel you MUST pound on it with something, use a plastic or leather mallet. If it won't come up with prying on a wooden lever, you have something else holding it down somewhere, check again!

Usually stuck down pretty good.

If you have high milage (200,000 plus, you may want to remove the valves and check for excessive wear, this will lower compression.

So will a tired head gasket, though. The 470 psi is a "new engine" number, the others are OK except for the low one. Probably a blown gasket into the chain case.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

PSFRED is right. Two weeks ago, I had my 603 aluminum head off also for a new gasket. When all the bolts were out, the head stuck right in place as though it were glued there. It doesn't take much to get it free once you find a way.

I had found a leverage point at the front where the timing chain and cam gear are. Also, be careful, there are two remaining bolts, I think 6mm hex, that fasten the forward most section of the head. Look down under the timing chain, one each side. If you try to pry the head off before removing these screws, you may damage the head.

I definitely have those 6 mm bolts out. Thanks for the idea of the wood block. I'll try that tonight. This engine was supposed to have been rebuilt 20,000 miles ago, but I think I got lied to.

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83 300D
84 190D