I'm planning on buying a new ignition lock cylinder before it locks up on me. I read that it's common, its getting a little difficult at times to turn. Does anyone have any tips re: the tool/s I'd need to install it. Someone mentioned a paper clip to get it out, but I don't think that will work. Do I need to buy the MB part for this? Thanks

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85 300TDT 456,000 orig. miles

No, a heavy duty paper clip will do just fine. All you're going to do is insert the wire into the hole to press the hidden button, and it isn't all that stiff.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Study the new tumbler real close and practice "releasing" the catch with the paper clip while making note of the position that the key has to be in. When you press the release the black ring should turn.

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Jim

Check out my nearly complete FAQ on the ignition tumbler for the W123s.

http://garnet.acns.fsu.edu/~jjs5772/W123

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

I hit a speedbump in replacing the tumbler on my 123. I can turn the key to the first position and get a paperclip in the release hole but I can't turn the collar (yes, I know it's supposed to unscrew counterclockwise). I know the paperclip is going in far enough since I can compare it to my new tumbler and the length that needs to be inserted to cause the locking pin to retract in the new one is the same length I can get in the hole on the old one. I've tried wiggling the paperclip and/or the key but just can't get the collar to release. I've tried jamming the wire in harder using pliers but it made no difference. I also shot in some graphite in the hopes that it would loosen things up. I know the collar isn't frozen on since it will wiggle back and forth a very tiny bit. I tried a pair of vicegrips to get better leverage but that did no good (although I didn't lever it very hard since I didn't want to chew up the collar). I'm running out of ideas.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Are you sure the paperclip is actually big enough? It sounds like its not releasing the collar. Do you have a metric hex wrench set? Try a 5mm or a 5.5mm hex wrench. The 5 is sure to enage the release.

The other option is to remove the entire ingnition assembly from the car and mess with it that way. A little more work, but your sure to get a good grip on the collar. I found on my wifes car that the 'ring around the collar' was causing trouble. When I say ring around the collar I am both refering to the decorative ring and the crud built up next to it on the collar.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

My lock was doing the same thing 2 years ago, being too cheap to spend $90 for a VIN coded lock at the dealer, I removed the lock cylinder.... There is a rolled pin holding the top onto the cylinder, I pressed it out and was able to remove a few of the brass lock pins...


Now it doesn't bind and I can remove the key while the engine is running: neat trick, I can lock the car and leave the AC on while I run in to pay for fuel or a stop at the post office....

been there, done that - more to keep the car warm in winter

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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7