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- - Storage ? on 240D (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=104657)

Storage ? on 240D

I've just become the owner of my first MB a 1978 240D. I've been using this forum to educate myself on these cars and it has been a great help and I know I will be posting in the future. Now my question. This car has been sitting for 2yrs prior to my ownership, the only thing that I'm aware of that was done prior to storage was some fuel stabilizer. Its an auto trans with 118K miles and was running fine before storage. What do I need to do before I try starting it. Thanks for any input.

pre start oil prime the engine.

After two years, the oil journals and galleys will be drained dry. :eek:
Here is a simple way:
Remove the oil pressure sensor, use one of the bleeders in this thread, but use SAE 30.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=103226

Very cheap pre oiler to save wear on the bearings...

Thanks for the info and any additional help would be much appreciated.

Please describe storage?

In a barn, in a heated garage, with battery in or out, setting on tires or jack stands, tires flat or inflated now, car cover???
Fifty AMP or higher battery charger and correct new battery.
Need more data...

Just under a covered awning. Not on jack stands, tires are inflated. Battery not removed. The vehicle has driving fine one day and then just turned off. Person stated that they had used a fuel stabilizer but I seriously doubt that.

Hello settle10
New battery, new tires, new air filter, bio bomb the tank, get it started, warm it up to normal operating temp = 80C, turn off, then very close inspection of V belts, radiator + hoses and oil level + any oil leaks.

The battery will be junk, the tires are flat spotted from setting, the air filter is not worth trusting.

Change the oil before you drive it! It is probably sludge. I would replace the tires to, I don't trust unknown tires.

I understand all of the recommendations but wanted to clarify on the "bio bomb". I was planning on taking the fuel tank out and making sure that nothing was in it that might cause a problem in startup. I'm assuming "bio bombing" might address the same problem, could you please explain this procedure.

Thanks,
Chris

I would think that removing the tank would be overkill. Imagine your disappointment if it had a quart of clean Diesel in it.

I think I would open the drain to the tank and run some fuel into a clear jar and look for signs of algae.

If there were, you could hit it with some algaecide and add a bit more fuel. If it had no algae you are probably good to go.

Lots of reading for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by settle10

Search on the topic

I'm either missing something or don't understand but I don't see anything that links to a search on the topic. I'll try and search on the topic. Also wasn't aware that the tank could be drained.

Thanks for the info.

don't know what happened, deleted and pasted the link again.
It works now.

There is a drainplug on the bottom of the tank. Both my Diesels have one, and it is my impression that all MB cars have one.

It is also possible to take out the fuel through where the strainer plugs in. The strainer is a screen-type filter in your tank that is the first line of defense against algae in the tank. If there is algae, you will see it here after the fuel has been flowing to the motor for even a little while.

The strainer is removed with a rather large Allen wrench, or perhaps some clever tool easily fabricated from a bolt head, Do a search on "algae", "tank filter", "tank strainer" and I am sure you will find a lot of useful info.

Hijacking for a question

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Eldridge

Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty.

:confused: What on earth is it??? :confused:

fuel tank screen

Search this forum for "screen in tank." There's some good information.