Hi,
Is there any way that the 80 amp fuse could be blown if I still have the glow plug light on the dash lighting up?
I replace the glow plugs yesterday and was unimpressed with the results. I do believe that I have other problems but fully expected a faster, more smooth startup this morning.
I don't know if or when the glowplugs were replaced and figured it would not hurt anything by changing them out.
Can someone tell me the location of said fuse and a discription of it? The best of could find in my book was that it is located on the left side of the engine.
Thanks in advance!
Glen

It's located inside the glow plug relay. You have to remove the black plastic cover from the relay to see/access the fuse. The relay is located on the driver side wheel housing. Trace the wiring backward from the glowplugs to positively identify it.

I *think* the dash light does not illuminate if the 80 amp fuse is blown. I had this happen on my '87 several years ago. I do remember it was an absolute bear to start without glowplugs. Temp was in the middle 40s fareheit and I could just barely get the car cranked up after several minutes of on-again off-again cranking. Made a most impressive smoke cloud too. If it had been a few degrees cooler I don't think starting would have been an option.

Does yours fire up right away, but then idle rough and smoke a bit? That's rather normal for these cars - the glow plugs shut off when you release the key from the 'start' position. Try giving it an extra dose of preglow. Just wait an extra 10 seconds after the dash light goes out - the glow plugs stay on even though the car has given you the 'ready to start' signal.

- JimY

you might want to check the resistance of each glowplug.they should read no more than 3 ohms max.if they do read higher replace

Hello Iceman
Questions for you:
#1. What is the ambient temp at _:___ AM when starting?
#2. What oil weight are you using?
#3. Are you sure the starter and battery are 100% good?
#4. When did you last change fuel filters?
#5. Any algae problems in the tank?
#6. Do you have a block heater and do you use it below 30F ???
#7. When was the air filter replaced last?
#8. Do you see any signs of age on the fuel hoses from tank to injection pump?
#9. Do you see any bubbles in the plastic fuel filter or lines?
#10. How is the engine compression?
#11. Search the forum for glow plug tests, I have gotten three bad NEW ones in six months.
#12. Do you thin your fuel with kerosene or gasoline?
#13. have you run diesel purge through in the last six months?

I would really enjoy seeing your Alaskan MB, could you post pictures?

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Thanks for the replies......And sorry for the long story below!

Yes, my car will fire up immediatly, it is just very rough and smokes. I do wait until I hear the relay click before I actually start the engine.

I'm luckly enough to be able to park the car in a garage, where I keep the temp arount 55 to 60. But it is parked at work during the day and the tempature has already gotten to just under freezing.
I'm using either 10w40 or 15w40, I forget which I used last, but it was within the last two weeks.
The battery is only a couple of years old and cranks the engine over quite well.
Changed both fuel filters with the last oil change.
I wouldn't know about algae in the tank, but there is no off odor to the fuel except diesel....which if course is not an off odor!
I have a block heater but because of the garage don't use it. Electrical hookups are not available at work.
All the lines look fairly new, no signs of decay.
You have me thinking about the bubbles in the small fuel prefilter, when I was running the engine last night I believe I did see lots of bubbles. Maybe I'm getting air in the fuel system somehow? I will look closely at that this evening.
I have not checked the compression. But I can tell you that I have had this car for at least 5 years up here. And it has been a daily driver all the time. It has never failed to start in any weather at any temprature.
It sure sucks not being able to rely on new components....but I will check out the glow plugs.
I don't add much to the tank other then fuel. Through the winter I will put in additives, not sure of the names but will find out.
I've only used diesel purge once, maybe a year ago. I had planned on running another dose or two through the system.

I have recently changed the motor mounts, which had completly collapsed.
That made quite a change in how the car feels but mostly at speed. If anything it lets me feel more of the roughness at idle. I'm paying more attention to the old girl lately and believe there is nailing happening at at least one injector.

Pictures???? you mean actually wash and wax it so that I could even think about posting it.........I'll have to think about that!
Glen

Hello Glen
Use 0W40 (zeroWforty) synthetic, the improvement will be noticed.
Test your glow plugs the old way suggested in this thread, no possible mistake then.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=104547&highlight=glow+plugs

Please make clear, key on, wait thirty seconds then start???
RE: Yes, my car will fire up immediately; it is just very rough and smokes. I do wait until I hear the relay click before I actually start the engine.

Have you replaced the air filter ever???

The clear filter should be light transparent blue, black or seeing particles in it means algae in the tank.
RE: I wouldn't know about algae in the tank, but there is no off odor to the fuel except diesel....which if course is not an off odor!

That would give you the trouble you describe.
RE: You have me thinking about the bubbles in the small fuel prefilter; when I was running the engine last night I believe I did see lots of bubbles. Maybe I'm getting air in the fuel system somehow? I will look closely at that this evening.

Replace the engine shocks, with mounts that bad the shocks should be trashed.
RE: I have recently changed the motor mounts, which had completely collapsed.
That made quite a change in how the car feels but mostly at speed. If anything it lets me feel more of the roughness at idle.

If you are sucking air in the fuel system, the engine is nailing, fix it and the issue will be gone.
RE: I'm paying more attention to the old girl lately and believe there is nailing happening at least one injector.

As is no wash please, a true showing of Alaska’s wonderful road system.

RE: Pictures???? you mean actually wash and wax it so that I could even think about posting it.........I'll have to think about that!
Glen[/QUOTE]

Funny how that works. Just yesterday my glow plug relay light was intermitently working, and then finally just quit. I immediately suspected one or more glow plug(s) failure. Popped the cap off of the relay just to see if all looked normal, and there was a tiny fracture in the 80 amp strip fuse. I pushed the two pieces of the fuse together, and instantly the glow plug light resumed working, just like nothing ever happened. I ordered a new one this morning in Fastlane, it was like $1.47. So, in my experience, with my car (1983 300TD wagon), no 80 amp strip fuse, no glow plug light.

__________________
1984 300TD Wagon--Astral Silver--Retired
1983 300TD Wagon--Dark Blue--Retired

The W124 chassis doesn't have engine shocks, they are part of the mount instead (gell filled).

I suspect you have an air leak in the suction lines. Check (or just replace) all hte lines between the steel pipe and the injection pump lift pump (on the side at the bottom), including the fuel heater lines. Likely they are like mine were and full of pinholes. This will go a long way to better starts and considerably less shaking and smoke.

If the nailing doesn't go away, and you still have rough idle warm, check out the posts on pressure valve holder seals.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks again for the input.

When I look at the clear plastic fuel filter, what I would call the secondary, I see a lot of bubbles in it. Fact is, so many it looks more like an agitator.
I take it that this is not what I should be seeing, but that it should be full of fuel only?
I will change out the fuel lines, I have already checked the connections and they are tight.

By the way, there a quite a number of diesels up here, most are 123's. I live just outside of Anchorage and the tempratures are quite moderate. I really feel for some of the members that live in Canada and some of the northern states. Their low tempratures are a lot worse then ours.
And then there are those hearty souls in places like Fairbanks Alaska, I always wonder if they ever get the oportunity to shutdown their vehicles in the dead of those -60degree coldspells.