What The Heck?? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ayalar007 · #1 10-05-2004, 10:54 AM

Hey Guys, I've got a really wierd episode here...

After much research on this forum (thanks so much) on rough ile, I concluded that my problem was the Rack Dampneer bolt and worn Moter mounds!

I adjusted the bolt and the engine smoothed out beautifully. Then I proceeded to change the motor mounts. Boy were they worn. I am almost positive that these were never replaced. Anyway, I I changed them and boy does she idle beautifully now.

Now to the wierd part. I went out the bank yesterday, and as I am waiting in line at the drive-thru windows, the car starts shaking side to side.

So I got home, popped the hood, and found the monts were cracked

. I took some pictures for you to see. Is this normal or is somethin else wrong that I missed. The engine shocks by the way seemed to be Ok. They had real good tension when I took them off the frame to get the engine jacked up!

Let me know what you think!

#2 10-05-2004, 11:13 AM

Not real clear that the new mounts are torn? Those ripples on the sides of the rubber are common. What would be a real concern is a tear through the soft black material.
The shaking side to side is either (1) a bit of crap got into an injector, or (2) you over adjusted the rack damber bolt. If the latter was the case, you will notice the engine will shake or will act up after running it up and letting off the throttle. If it is seriously over adjusted it will die with the same run up.
Maybe just follow up the work with a diesel purge session.

ayalar007 · #3 10-05-2004, 11:58 AM

I Don't know if it helped, but right after I adjusted the rack dampner, I poured a bottle of Redline's diesel catalyst. Would that help? Moreover, I have a new Rack dampner bolt coming by mail. I'll have to see what that does!

#4 10-05-2004, 12:37 PM

You should get a can of diesel purge and follow the directions carefully. Basically you run it full strength through the fuel filler and into the IP, with the fuel return line running back into the container, until the entire can has been used. I do this once a year with both of mine and they always show substantial improvement after the purge. Just using fuel additives is not nearly as effective.
Don't get oversold on that damper bolt. If it is set right and is doing what it is supposed to, that problem is solved, until the bolt gets worn futher. You already said the engine smoothed out when you set it. That is a very good result. There are a host of other things that will make these old diesels shake and so on. Just solve one at a time.

ayalar007 · #5 10-05-2004, 01:23 PM

Sounds like really good advise to me. Thanks!! Would you recommend a good brand of diesel purge. I've never done this before so any recommendations will be great!

WANT '71 280SEL · #6 10-05-2004, 01:48 PM

Diesel Purge is the brand. Go on google and you should be able to find it as cheap as about $6 a can.
David

Eskimo · #7 10-05-2004, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayalar007

Sounds like really good advise to me. Thanks!! Would you recommend a good brand of diesel purge. I've never done this before so any recommendations will be great!

I think he might be referring to "Diesel Purge," from LubroMoly. I ordered some recently from E.T.Y. Parts, based on a suggestion from someone else on the forum (sorry, I don't have the time to search so as to give him credit). I paid $7 per can for a quantity of 5 cans, and shipping seemed reasonable.

Search the forum on "diesel purge", and you'll find plenty.

ayalar007 · #8 10-05-2004, 02:04 PM

Thanks to all of you who have chimmed in! I'll try that purge as soon as I find it! Again thanks for all your comments

ayalar007 · #9 10-07-2004, 03:41 PM

He fellas, just wanted to chime in here and tell you all where I am at (maybe this will help someone else). I took your advise (of doing a diesel purge) and placed it on hold until I finally recieved the rack dampner bolt I ordered from Performance Products. Well I finally got in today, and installed in the IP. At first I didn't know how far to go with it, so I just screwed it in until I felt some resistance. I acclerated and let the accelerator go, to see if it stumbuled, but it didn't so I left it there. I tightened the Lock bolt and went for a drive with my wrenches in hand. WOW

What an improvement. I would have never imagined a stupid little bolt would be responsible for so much "sea-sickness". Anyway, I am planning on running the Diesel Purge, but I have to find a retailer round town that carries it. I have 2 questions though. 1. Did I tightened the bolt too much?? and 2. How do you actully run the purge through the system? I read a couple of threads that say that just pouring it into the filter will only send it back to the tank. So how is this done???

Again thats for all your input! Couldnt have done it without you

ajohnson1 · #10 10-07-2004, 03:52 PM

Another good source I used to buy parts for my VW from is Adirondack Auto Brokers, www.germanautoparts.com.

You can find the diesel purge on this page for $7.25/can

-Adam

Pete Burton · #11 10-07-2004, 04:23 PM

Robert, did that rack bolt go in without removing the oil filter housing? I'm where you were with regard to the "shakes"

Diesel purge is used by disconnecting fuel inlet line to inlet filter on the bottom of your IP. Connect a new hose to it and stick it in the diesel purge. Disconnect cigar hose where it connects to metal fuel return line. Stick that end of the cigar hose in the diesel purge too.

tomm9298 · #12 10-07-2004, 04:42 PM

Sorry about the FNG question, but here goes....
What is a rack dampner bolt?
What is it's purpose?
Where is it located?
Is it adjustable or replacement only?

ayalar007 · #13 10-07-2004, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

Robert, did that rack bolt go in without removing the oil filter housing? I'm where you were with regard to the "shakes"

Yep it sure did. The space between the IP and the oil filter housing is exactly the sapce apart to get the bolt out (you gotta love the Germans!). Its a little tricky to put it back in because of the space situation, but a small enough hand will get it going. Most important thing to remember is that you have to make sure its threaded correctly. The thread on the bolt is fine thread, so if you jump a thread,

!!! It really only took me 15 minutes. BTW, when you check the idle after the car has reached op. temp, and you feel you need to adjust the rack bolt, be very very careful of the oil filter housing. It is EXTREMELY hot. Don't ask how I know!

Good luck

ayalar007 · #14 10-07-2004, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomm9298

Sorry about the FNG question, but here goes....
What is a rack dampner bolt?
What is it's purpose?
Where is it located?
Is it adjustable or replacement only?

This may help a bit click on these links and read about it. There are tons more if you do a search under Rack Dampner Bolt

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=36266&highlight=rack+dampner+Bolt

or

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=14821&highlight=rack+dampner+Bolt

Good luck!

Ken300D · #15 10-08-2004, 06:19 PM

If you go in too far with the rack dampener bolt, then you develop a difficulty in cold idling. When you start the car cold, it will idle much slower than normal and may stall.

If that happens just back out a half turn. The part isn't rocket science - its just a spring loaded pin. The new part design does have a stronger spring behind the pin.

So, just turn it in until you feel resistance, then maybe a turn and a half more. Test.

Ken300D

If only I'd invested in these things when they were $25 each..........