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  #16  
Old 10-21-2004, 06:49 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Most likely it's the bearing and not the clutch (fan is separate from the water pump on this car). Replace it if its wobbly.

If the visco clutch is bad, replace it, else you will need to find a way to switch the fan on a much lower temps than the aux fan (212F -- too hot).

This is an easy repair.

Re-install the lower panels, they pull the air off the rad and out under the car. If missing, you recirculate hot air around the rad instead of fresh air through it. Note the exhaust duct behind the fan....

They also keep water out of the alternator, not an insignificant thing on that car.

Running a 5-7A constant current draw will use about 0.25 mpg. This is why MB and many others use a visco clutch instead of a plain fan or electric fan -- the fan can be very aggressive to move huge amounts of air, while using minimal power when not needed. Very reliable, too.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2004, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Habanero
I attribute the trend of newer vehicles going to electric to many of the newer cars being front-wheel drive, thus having to have an electrical fan. So, it is sort of off-the-shelf technology to put electrics even in rear-drive cars. Like I said originally, I think it is more or less a coin flip as to which takes more power, and I have to think the mechanical is more reliable.

Thats exactly why they don't use them anymore their is no way you can fit one on a fwd car.

Does MB still use these fan clutch's? My friends 98 E300D has one and his dads 95 S600 has one. MB must have thought they were a pretty good idea because they would have stuck an electric fan on the S600 if it was better. Money was no object when they built that one.
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  #18  
Old 10-22-2004, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psfred
Most likely it's the bearing and not the clutch (fan is separate from the water pump on this car). Replace it if its wobbly.
PSFRED,
I dont see this part listed as a replacement part. I just see the clutch.
when stopped i can turn the fan blades and feel the slow resistance of fluid but when i grasp opposing fan blades i can turn the fan clutch/blades to point 5 degrees or less both ways from center. think of riding a bicycle and moving the handles to steer. i can also with the same grasp slide it all directions off center while keeping the fan on the same plane as it should be...strait just off center.
dont think that is very good.

and no im not driving it right now but i did fire it up to run some diesel purge through it.
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sold
1987 300 SDL 318K
126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14)
Born on date 11/07/1986
2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust
flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion

now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup
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  #19  
Old 10-22-2004, 10:35 AM
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bad bearing! wow, replace that before it causes some serious damage!
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2004, 08:23 PM
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You will have to call and order the bearing, they don't fail very often and hence are not carried by most parts suppliers. Only takes a couple extra days at most to get it (Partshop is the place to call, they can get it from Mercedes if necessary).

You don't want to feed that hungry fan a radiator....

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #21  
Old 10-23-2004, 04:24 PM
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yup

fan vs. radiator........
ill be pulling the fan assembly off asap

any tips on getting to those nuts on the waterpump pully? i cant seem to get a 1/4 ratchet (if i rember correctly) and open ended are too strait.

thanks
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sold
1987 300 SDL 318K
126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14)
Born on date 11/07/1986
2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust
flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion

now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup
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  #22  
Old 10-23-2004, 06:30 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Remove fan and clutch by holding the clutch with a piece of coat hanger wire stuck between the two "nubs" on the bearing housing and into the holes around the back, 8mm Allen for the bolt in the center. Fan is easy to remove on the bench, and you gotta do this anyway to get the bearing assembly off.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #23  
Old 10-23-2004, 06:36 PM
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Remeber this is an SDL it uses a different radiator from all other W126's. Read more $$$ $395-$570
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  #24  
Old 10-28-2004, 04:51 PM
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I stoped by the dealership

and the parts guy said there was no part listed for the bearings separate from the clutch. only sold as with the clutch. $278. But this is the parts guy suggested i remove the clutch bearings and take the numbers off of it and order through www.bearings.com or a similar site.

Come to think of it. This parts guy has talked me out of more parts than he has sold me. But i can’t say much for the service manager.
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sold
1987 300 SDL 318K
126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14)
Born on date 11/07/1986
2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust
flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion

now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup

Last edited by OhioSDL; 10-28-2004 at 04:57 PM.
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  #25  
Old 10-28-2004, 10:22 PM
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He sounds like a good parts guy!
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1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
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2007 Tiara 3200
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  #26  
Old 11-22-2004, 08:09 PM
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Location: cleveland ohio
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Wow!

Sunday i pulled the fan clutch off and WOW. That was close!

The inside of the bearing had lost about 3-4 of the balls. The seal was all shot and i have no idea where the balls went. I will have to include some pictures later this weekend.

Man I wonder what the expression on my face would have been while getting up to speed at 3-4000 rpm's while the hood dents upwards and im blinded by a cloud of steam

any way. ive decided to try the electric fan

The internal clearances are aprox:
27.5 X 16.75 X 3.5"

from these i have decided on a Flex A Lite Slimline

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html

Sounds like the ticket.


So what should I do with the old clutch and fan?

I could always provide a cut-a-way explanation for the benifit of the greater MB knowledge

hmmmm
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sold
1987 300 SDL 318K
126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14)
Born on date 11/07/1986
2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust
flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion

now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup
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  #27  
Old 11-23-2004, 12:30 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The fan would fly into the rad and bite a BIG hole in it -- I did this with my 68 Toyota Crown when the water pump shaft broke and worked out of the bearings. Had to change the radiator outside in subzero weather, not fun. Metal fan, cut through all three rows of tubes!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2004, 12:34 AM
Brandon314159
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Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by psfred
The fan would fly into the rad and bite a BIG hole in it -- I did this with my 68 Toyota Crown when the water pump shaft broke and worked out of the bearings. Had to change the radiator outside in subzero weather, not fun. Metal fan, cut through all three rows of tubes!

Peter
Who needs a radiator in sub zero temps!?!?
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2004, 12:39 AM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioSDL
any way. ive decided to try the electric fan

The internal clearances are aprox:
27.5 X 16.75 X 3.5"

from these i have decided on a Flex A Lite Slimline

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html

Sounds like the ticket.
*cringe*
but its not german
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2004, 02:35 PM
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1) The main problem with most electrics is they don't move enough air compared to the mechanical fan. Really good electrics (I think the 500E crowd uses a 'SPAL' fan, whatever that is) cost as much as a new mechanical clutch (~$300). How bad do you want to lose the stock setup, & why?

2) If you get an electric, you NEED (not 'want', not 'maybe', NEED!) to upgrade the alternator. The stock 70A unit is almost useless. Get a 100-120A unit from late mid/late 90's Mercedes at a minimum, and I'd recommend finding a 143-150A unit (late V8's only). It's a mechanical bolt-in but you'll need to run larger wire (4ga at least) to replace the pair of dinky 10ga stock wires from alternator to battery, and tap the fan feed directly from that.

3) The dual-fan setup in the link you posted might work, if it fits. The single fan isn't enough.

Let us know what you end up doing and how it works out...


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