bye bye fan clutch - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hit Man X · #61 04-12-2005, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

Have you seen the wire that supplies current to the compressor clutch? It can't be more than 5 or 10 A unless there is something I haven't taken into account.

The pusher fan in front of the radiator is probably the largest OE current drain outside the lighting. I have Hella H3's in place of the 5-3/4 fogs. std 55 W bulbs. ANd I use Hellas below the bumper on one of my W123's. No big deal, I really dislike using 100 W bulbs and people that use them are on my spit list too

I am going to install an 80-0-80 amp gauge in my '79 300TD when I get the time to lash it in and then I can see firsthand how much current it needs. I will be shocked if I don't have at least 20 A left to run puller fans (I have been wanting to get rid of the clutch driven fan for a long time)

PS Thanks for the link to dc controls! I appreciate that!

Headlights alone should pull nearly 20A with all running lights. A/C compressor also needs to have on the A/C blower fan so that's how I get at least 20A from that. A power window draws big power when it moves also as would the rear defrost. It could be 50A with everything on with a reserve of 15A for a window to function or a seat to move. Even in an extra S-Class manual I have states not to use certain functions too long as they hurt the charging system, that was in reference to the seat heaters.

I may estimate a bit high, but it's better to be safe than sorry. The OE charging system is well known to be on the poor side. There's no way I'd risk it by putting on e-fan(s) with it... espically if you live in a climate that is somewhat similar to the gates of hell in the summer.

gsxr · #62 04-13-2005, 09:54 AM

Schwarz - what you describe (cycling from 80-105-80C etc) is NOT NORMAL. You have a problem there that is not related to the VFC in ANY way. I'd replace your t-stat with a new Wahler or Behr, even if the current one is not that old. Also, most are rated 87C, not 82C... at least on the OM60x (and I thought the 617's were the same). You might even have a head gasket issue, which also causes erratic temps like this.

Everyone - alternator ratings are at peak output. A 70A unit puts out 35-40A max at idle. That's not enough to supply the car when idling in summer traffic. A 143-150A unit will put out 100A or more (!) at idle. Been there, tested that, complete data is in my alternator upgrade post elsewhere on this forum. I would never add a 25A load from an electric fan with the stock 70A (or smaller!) alternator.

Neil - what's the noise level, and cost, of the SPAL fan?

boneheaddoctor · #63 04-13-2005, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Schwarz - what you describe (cycling from 80-105-80C etc) is NOT NORMAL. You have a problem there that is not related to the VFC in ANY way. I'd replace your t-stat with a new Wahler or Behr, even if the current one is not that old. Also, most are rated 87C, not 82C... at least on the OM60x (and I thought the 617's were the same). You might even have a head gasket issue, which also causes erratic temps like this.

Everyone - alternator ratings are at peak output. A 70A unit puts out 35-40A max at idle. That's not enough to supply the car when idling in summer traffic. A 143-150A unit will put out 100A or more (!) at idle. Been there, tested that, complete data is in my alternator upgrade post elsewhere on this forum. I would never add a 25A load from an electric fan with the stock 70A (or smaller!) alternator.

Neil - what's the noise level, and cost, of the SPAL fan?

Many of the High output alternators put out less at Idle than a lower rated one.

You can't assume they all put a lot out off idle.

I had guy I wanted to buy a new alternator for my truck...I haigh amp one from...he talked to me about what I needed it for etc....most of which was to run an inverter at idle for extended periods....and he told me as much as he would love a sale that was the wrong choice for my needs. And that my stock 75 amp one actually put more out at idle than this one did.

This was for occaisonal power tool use in remote places...and as an emergency generator to keep refridgerator going on the rare times an ice storm takes down comercial power.......normally power is very quickly restored even after bad ice storms do to my location on the grid. adn a stand alone generator makes little sense as a result. A 2,500 watt average Inverter will be sufficient for the little needs I had. I ran a smaller one off my bense 2 years ago for a tv adn light..but was too small to handle the surge of the refridgerator startup.

Actually that one was a Computer UPS I pulled the battery out of cabled to my battery in car and forced it to run like a comercial puwer outage adn ran an extension cord into house. It wasn't a dedicated inverter. I was the only person on the street with a tv that worked that day.

gsxr · #64 04-13-2005, 10:23 AM

Facotry high-output alternators put out HUGE idle current. I've personally tested them. Aftermarket units will do the same (at high cost... about $250-$500).

What does NOT work is re-winding a small stock unit to be 'high ouput', since THOSE will almost always put out less at idle, even though peak output increases. The factory units are physically much larger - you can't get that performance from the dinky stock 55-70A units.

Mister Byrnzoil · #65 04-13-2005, 12:16 PM

Thanks to whoever posted this link a year ago, what a great read, all questions answered, I would call this 'required reading' for this upgrade. This appears to be solid equipment (prices have gone up a bit)

http://www.dccontrol.com/faq.htm

http://www.dccontrol.com/techwrk.htm

I pulled a 3 wire taurus/mk viii fan from the junkyard and tried to fit it on my jeep, it didn't work out, so I sold it for $100. Now I'm thinking maybe I shoulda kept it.

schwarzwagen · #66 04-13-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Schwarz - what you describe (cycling from 80-105-80C etc) is NOT NORMAL. You have a problem there that is not related to the VFC in ANY way. I'd replace your t-stat with a new Wahler or Behr, even if the current one is not that old. Also, most are rated 87C, not 82C... at least on the OM60x (and I thought the 617's were the same). You might even have a head gasket issue, which also causes erratic temps like this.

yup, i am on it. after work yesterday, i went down to the dealer and got a new thermo. i am not sure if its that or blockage in the radiator. i started to think about it more and realized it was not the vfc.

Hit Man X · #67 04-13-2005, 03:22 PM

1. PLEASE tell me where to adapt a 130-150A alt to my 617.

2. I have access to a PLETHORA of Taurus/Mark VIII fans.

3. A quality high amp unit does fine. My 200A on my F150 kicks out about 95A at idle at 14.6v...

boneheaddoctor · #68 04-13-2005, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

1. PLEASE tell me where to adapt a 130-150A alt to my 617.

2. I have access to a PLETHORA of Taurus/Mark VIII fans.

3. A quality high amp unit does fine. My 200A on my F150 kicks out about 95A at idle at 14.6v...

Do a searcj on Bosch alternator and Saab 9000 I think it was an AL-149X or something like that......there are threads here about it with photos and what needs done with Wiring.

Hit Man X · #69 04-13-2005, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

Do a searcj on Bosch alternator and Saab 9000 I think it was an AL-149X or something like that......there are threads here about it with photos and what needs done with Wiring.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=93569&page=1&pp=15&highlight=alternator+upgrade

Now, it said something about an A/C line being in the way... would this hold true for my SD?

boneheaddoctor · #70 04-13-2005, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=93569&page=1&pp=15&highlight=alternator+upgrade

Now, it said something about an A/C line being in the way... would this hold true for my SD?

THe W123 yes..( one line runs next to it)..the W116 no..( A/C lines are all on left side of bay)...the W126?????? take a look and see. It will be obvious if you see one there. I never looked under the hood of a W126 before.

dieseldiehard · #71 04-13-2005, 07:55 PM

I believe the 126 would not be a problem. But please be aware that all the high current alternators have studs for connecting the output and field wires, not a simple littel plug like some alternators use.
You have to replace the output wiring too if you are going to be able to safely perate a bigger alternator, what's the sense of burning up the wiring? I found some 8 gA teflon wire that will handle 115 A peak if two are paralleled. Where you attach the load(s) is also important, so an additional bus or fuse block for aux. blowers is highly recommended, the existing terminal assy is a bit overloaded if you ask me.

boneheaddoctor · #72 04-13-2005, 08:10 PM

Just for the record since my original post was quoted its a Bosche AL129X alternator, I made a mistake in my earlier quote.

#73 04-13-2005, 08:27 PM

I've gone one of the 129x units and it should fit just fine. There is oodles of room on that side of the engine down that low. The wiring is easy also as the power line from the battery is realitively close.
I am going to throw some bearings and brushes in mine before I put it to service though...

Hit Man X · #74 04-13-2005, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

THe W123 yes..( one line runs next to it)..the W116 no..( A/C lines are all on left side of bay)...the W126?????? take a look and see. It will be obvious if you see one there. I never looked under the hood of a W126 before.

The only thing I saw back there was the oil drain to the oil pump pan, no A/C lines... they all seem to be over on the driver side. Dryer/accumulator too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

I believe the 126 would not be a problem. But please be aware that all the high current alternators have studs for connecting the output and field wires, not a simple littel plug like some alternators use.
You have to replace the output wiring too if you are going to be able to safely perate a bigger alternator, what's the sense of burning up the wiring? I found some 8 gA teflon wire that will handle 115 A peak if two are paralleled. Where you attach the load(s) is also important, so an additional bus or fuse block for aux. blowers is highly recommended, the existing terminal assy is a bit overloaded if you ask me.

That's a given. I'd run a single 4awg back to the battery, no fuseable link. Big inline holder.

This is pie compared to swapping in a 3G from a 2G Ford. You have to ditch the entire factory harness, add a wire to get the stator to come on from the reg harness, get a 12v switched... not the easiest thing but going from 65A to 130A...

Any idea what that does at idle?

whunter · #75 12-08-2012, 04:04 AM

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