Look what my PO did with the transmission cooler line

[bluetypewriter]

Not sure how I missed this one....

This weekend I replaced the gasket on the oil pan. While I was under there I noticed something strange on what I believe is the oil cooler line.





Looks like I have something new to add to my list of things to find at the Pull a Part.

Fixed title, thanks to vstech

[vstech]

that's the transmission cooler line. dealer is gonna LOOOVE you! I'd just go to an auto parts store, and buy some steel line, and flare fittings and repair it properly.

[tyl604]

Not sure but that repair might be OK if it is a steel line. The rubber hose might just be there to prevent the line from rubbing against the pan (not sure that's the oil pan). Mine has a bit of rubber hose attached over the steel line on the passenger side at an elbow; just saw it when I climbed under to inspect the alternator.

If however all you have there is rubber hose, I agree that it needs to be replaced.

[kerry]

Lots of OE transmission coolers use rubber hose. For instance on my Landcruiser, metal lines run to within a couple of feet of the radiator, then it switches to rubber hose with just spring clamps on them. Most aftermarket transmission coolers use rubber hoses and clamps. Nothing needs to be changed in my opinion. If you're really worried, use some constant torque hose clamps.

[compu_85]

Ya, my Dodge used rubber lines with a spring on the outside. I'd just replace the rubber line, they make line specifically for trans fluid as I recall.

-J

[JB3]

mines exactly the same as the OP's pic. The darned OEM brackets always cut through the tranny oil cooler lines on either side of the lower pan when the bracket rubber gets old and metal contacts metal. Right where that rubber line is used to be a mount with a long socket screw into the oil pan mating surface.

I woulda used different clamps than that, but rubber right there is a pretty standard MB repair.

[SirNik84]

The line failed because the bracket that holds the line is made of metal with a plastic insulation. the bracket is bolted to the engine with the oil pan bolt. when the plastic insulation fails... which is true for about 90% of cars now because of age. the metal bracket erodes a hole into the line.

The repair done above is a pretty good one for someone on a budget, as it will last, and its functional. Unless its leaking or your in the process of making a show car I don't see a problem with it... for example when I added a auxiliary transmission cooler to my car the kit plumbed in with rubber hose and hose clamps and lasted over 100k on my car. (only to be replaces with a manual transmission) The only issue may be that the line is not barbed for the rubber hose... so it may leak, but the double hose clamps should help.

If you do replace your line (I did when mine failed) I did not use the brackets to hold the line back on, instead I used the bracket as a place to zip tie the line to. This is one case where plastic is better then metal, you don't want the metal bracket to eat another hole in it. maybe source a plastic wire holder from the hardware store.

Good luck!

[SD Blue]

My experience for this kind of a "fix" was not a good one. Repair with a section of flex hose caused the hard line to vibrate at another location and the end result was a fracture of the line-to-banjo-bolt joint, at the transmission.

The repair with proper replacement parts is not nearly as expensive as a catastrophic failure (~$50-$60 each at the dealer). These kind of failures, at least to me, always seem to occur in the middle of nowhere and the wrong time of day.

[Stretch]

After buying brake lines at the dealer I've gone right off buying any lines from them - they are expensive and they don't even come bent to fit...

[babymog]

The transmission fluid cooler lines are I believe low pressure, unlike the oil cooler lines. They will *probably* be fine.

Typically you need a beaded end or barbs to ensure that the hose doesn't slip off, and you should check to see at least that the person who made this repair de-burred the line ends so it doesn't cut through from the inside.

My car had the oil line to the turbo "repaired" this way, ...

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by babymog

The transmission fluid cooler lines are I believe low pressure, unlike the oil cooler lines. They will *probably* be fine.

Typically you need a beaded end or barbs to ensure that the hose doesn't slip off, and you should check to see at least that the person who made this repair de-burred the line ends so it doesn't cut through from the inside.

My car had the oil line to the turbo "repaired" this way, ...

If you were to use a longer piece of Hose you would not need any barbs on the tubing because there is no pace forward or backwards for the tubing to move.
With a longer hose a 3rd clamp could be added to each side. Also the Hose may be of a small enough diameter to use the Fuel Injection Hose type Clamps that do not have the Grooves that cut the Hose like the worm gear type clamps that are on it do.

[SD Blue]

The lines I ordered for an '84 SD came bent to fit and were an easy replacement. Also, it wasn't the pressure that caused a problem, it was vibration. The ends fractured where the fittings were brazed on.

[Diesel911]

The Repair with the Hose looks ugly but is OK as long as it does not leak.

I would replace that piece of hose with a new section of Hose that you know is made For an Oil or Transmission Coolers.
I know from my own experience the Fuel Hose gets eaten up/soft in a shorter time when used as a Transmission Cooler Hose.

[TheDon]

I did that to my w123. I used a tight fitting hose and cut out a very small section of pipe. Double clamped. Never leaked again.

[cad58y]

When the cooler line on the wife's 38SLC failed she fried the tranny to the tune of $2600.00. Forget the alternatives and order 2 new hoses from MB. Just my humble opinion based on writing the check.