Just got back from test driving a 1987 300d. The car has 312,000 miles on it but runs great. It seems to be quicker off the line than my 1994 saab aero which kind of caught me by surprise (much, much faster than my old 1981 300d. No problem at all getting on the freeway. The interior is worn but ok. No radio or speakers but the wires are all there. Newer injection pump and brake master cylinder. Comes with extra set of wheels with blizzaks. Timing chain and head redone at 200,000 miles. Seller seems very honest. Oil changes done every 10,000 miles with amsoil diesel grade oil. Uses 2 quarts every 10,000 miles. No signs of leakage. Newer springs and shocks.

Brakes are spongey but there seems to be plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir. (could they just need bleeding?). Rust has eaten through the lower passenger door and the area in front of the jack point on both sides (front of car) but the frame rails seem solid. Driver's side tail light is broken (car was hit there) and nearby fender is bent and rusted through. Rust evident elsewhere but not through. Driver drove over something recently and there is significant exhaust noise. Couldn't tell where the leak was, possibly near the front muffler/resonator. Full exhaust was replaced under MB warranty around 7 years ago.

What do you think? Price is around $1,000.

That still sounds high. The car probably doesn't have a lot of life left but if you can get it for under a $1,000 and NOT have to put any more money into it to keep it running for a year or two longer then it may not be too bad. I would really try to get it for less. Keep in mind that you may be dumping a lot more money into that car in the very near future and it most likely won't be worth it. A friend of mine just bought a '91 190E with the 2.8 liter engine with 187k, small dent in the door, mint interior, nice paint, ice cold A/C and no rust for $500. The car needed a water pump ($1,000 -$1,500 job) but we put it on ourselves. I would keep looking. You can probably find a better deal.

Just my thoughts. It really depends on what you are willing to put up with.


Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

I usually go with my "feelings" toward a car.. does it drive well etc. BUT after that I have to go through what's "wrong" and if I can fix some things and have other things fixed so I can drive it around ASAP and then turn attention to the other things needing repair. In other words a window that's inoperable might be OK.. I do want heat and defrost before air conditioning etc. The main point is How Much Will It Cost Me?

You seem to know a lot of things about the car that need attention.. I would add them up and see if the price is right for purchase. If I still want the car, then I would try to bargain with the owner using the price for the fixes as reasons the price should come down. (I never use these figures toward "getting my money back on resale" because that's imposible on the older models)

If the prices are too high for my pocketbook, then I consider the fact that I was never meant to own the vehicle.

Hope this helps some

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Nello Tare

1982 300D (266,001 mi.) looking and running great

Previously owned:
1976 450 SLC
1983 300D
1976 300D
also
1982 Jaguar XJ6 (loved, but gone)

thanks for the advice. I guess I need to let this one go. It would be fun to have one to tinker with, but winter is coming and the garage is getting cold. I looked on ebay and doors seem to be available for not much, but the muffler could be costly. I was surprised by the rust. I had thought that the newer benzes had much better paint than the older ones (like my 1967 230 which was a true rust bucket). It is too bad that this is a rare model. It seems like a lot more fun to drive than the older diesels.

The running engine by itself is worth more than $1000.

Get it, run it until it crumbles into a pile of rust, and then sell the engine out of it to someone that let theirs overheat.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Offer $700 it is worth that alone in parts. You may be able to drive it for a year or so too.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Find out exactly what he meant by "the head was done". If it has the newer head on it, grab it, the head is worth what he is asking for the car. If it is an old head, go with your gut.

The old heads were marked with the #14.

Cheers,

Bill

How tough is it to replace the muffler on one of these? I have done cat back replacements on volvos and saabs but never on a diesel. Are they just bolt together or do I need to weld?

Is the rocker panel in front of the front jack point considered structural? The rails (inboard of the jackpoints) seem fine. Is there a danger of the car just collapsing?

Replacement exhaust systems are conventional bolt-together style. See the Performance Products catalog diagrams.

I don't think that's anywhere close to a structural rust problem. I think that would be a place where you could cut it out, clean it up, treat it and patch. In my case it would not look so hot because I don't know sheet metal work that well, but it would be usable transportation.

Probably not the best car for a Minnesota winter - but you could get some use out of it much of the year. The diesel might gell on ya a bit if you kept it outside.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles