Hi

Today I rtied to start my "New" 220D it has the engine replaced but the po could not get it started once he put it in.

Symptoms ; after checking delivery to injectors I tried to start many times .

Then it caught and ran but only for 30 seconds or so. after stoping it always took three tries then start run die.

Since I had fuel pumping to the injectors and It ran I was confused.

even though it ran I checked the delivery side of the filter cracked inlet and cranked no fuel ??Hmm ? I tried the hand pump while delivery banjo was loose - fuel everywhere!

Is the fuel hand pump that much more powerfull than the lift pump?
and if the lift pump is bad how does the hand pump get fuel?

Oh the hand pump leaks all over the place I will have to replace that.

Thanks - at first I thought the engine was toast but now...

I would replace the old primer with the new style primer, you might find the car runs fine. I suspect you are getting air into the system at the hand pump causing the problem.

__________________
'10 Chrysler T&C Stow-N-Go White. Grandpa's ride.

'13 Chrysler 200 Touring Candy Red. Grandma's ride.

Age and cunning will always over come youth and vigor.

I looked at the archives under HP (primer) and the thought seems to be if it leaks it may keep it from starting - well mine does more than Leak it Gushes probly fill a coffy cup in three pumps.

will my local dealer have the "New" type? since it's the season of full trucks I will try localy first otherwise I would us "Fastlane".

I will try tomorrow and get back to you all.

Thanks

Chuck

Chuck,

After you replace the primer pump and pump it at least 50 times and the engine still won't run, try the filters.

Have you checked the fuel fliters and the tank strainer? The inline filter is easy, remove it and try to blow thru it. If fuel squirts out of it, its OK. If you can hardly blow air thru it its plugged and should be cleaned or replaced. If engine now runs OK your work is finished. If engine still doesn't run go to the can filter.

The can type filter is more difficult to test. Probably best to just replace it and try starting the engine. After replaceing the can filter, pump the primer pump like crazy to fill the can filter and get the air outof the system. Some people pour fuel into the new can filter before screwing it in place. If engine runs OK, job done.

Now if the engine still won't run. Remove the fuel line from the fuel tank. If there is enough fuel in the tank, the fuel should run out of the fuel line rapdily. If it doesn't, the tank strainer is plugged and needs to be cleaned. This usually only happens if you have fungus in the fuel system.

P E H

Leaky hand pump allows air in since the pump seal is also the air seal there. No fuel, no start.

Replace with the new style -- you will most likely need a set of crow-foot wrenches.

With the new one on, try again to prime. Should work much better this time.

Remember to check the oil in the IP -- remove the screw on the side below the oil filler cap (red, says "oel"). If no oil comes out, add through the filler until it does, and replace screw. Like the 6.3: M100, the 220D IP has a separate oil sump, it's not lubed via the crankcase.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for that tip I have no idea if the po did that when he replaced the engine , I saw the Oil cap and figured it was a closed system but had no idea how to check.

He never got the new engine started. so we will see if he bought a good runner or not.

I will be geting a new pump tomorrow If time permits this being a worker bee has it's downside.

Thanks all.

I have the black parts book with the exploded diagrams for this car. If you are interested PM or email me.

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

Ok thanks for all the help and sugestions . It's been awhile since I tried to start the car ( weather, time and all) so today I went to the storage place with my new primer pump ( black) some hose and a good attitude - hey it was sunny, first time in a week or so.

I got it started ,this time it ran longer before it died about 1 min
so Itried it again same thing I think hey maybe air ?

I repeted this about five times ( had to keep a jump going)

then I went to the head scratching mode while staring at my unyealding motor I noticed water leaking from the radiator-- HMM?

SO bieing the inqusitive sort I loosend the (COLD) radiator cap

WOW!!! Preseto I knew the ANSWER!!! well I did- as I watched Antifreeze spray 30 feet from the overflow tube.

OK who can say BAD HEAD GASKET!!

Oh well now I know the 4cyl is toast Time to put the 5cyl /5speed in.

Thanks All

Chuck

PS anyone need an ancor ? very big door stop?

Heh, a very emphatic answer, although perhaps not the answer you were hoping for

Well, you could just put a new head gasket in it....

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Fix it?
No I realy bought the car for it's body ( shalow of me I know) I was trying to start it to see if it had any value before I found someone to put my other Engine/trans in it.

Oh It also has aluminum rims but not the usual "Bunt" ones same mfr but different. and older I think.

Now I seriously have to find a Mechanic /shop that I can aford.

Thanks ALL

Chuck

I got one from my local NAPA dealer for $19 and change.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche