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#1
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gonna get a new chassis for the sd
well i have been doing alot of body work on the car since i got it and i have just decided to get a new chassis. pretty much take everything off and transfer it. has anyone ever done this. i think i can get one for cheap since i can get a wrecked on complete for like 5-600. + the local parts yard sells the left over metal to companies for $60 a ton. so does anyone have any advice. the old one is just too rusty and made up of bondo(found out after i started stripping the paint)
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#2
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Advice...
Get a bare body from south or south west.
Paint and Undercoat it, then transfer parts. Plan 3 - 7K and 280 - 450 hours = a ten year nice car. More hours = less cash money. I can do a straight transfer of glass, interior, wiring, power train and steering/suspension/brakes, in a full service garage by myself in roughly 160 hours = general cost $16,000.00 labor only... ![]() A good Arizona or north Texas body with a bad engine would be cheaper. ![]()
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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well i allready planned on redoing the undercoating and all the labor is gonna be done by ME not anyone else but the glass people that i will higher to r&r the glass. ill probly spray my own paint too. i have had really good results spraying my own primer and i do all of my own body work so i can take care of that. so are you calling me crazy yet?
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it ![]() |
#4
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Not crazy-----certainly, " ambitious"
Not meant to discourage you, but the ability to shoot primer does not equate to the ability to shoot topcoat. They are very different animals. Primer is very forgiving; glossy finishes are not. While you are transferring parts, gain some experience in shooting topcoat on the old body. Don't waste a lot of time on prep. Just scuff it up and shoot. Vary the gun pressure and the viscosity of the paint in small stages and observe the finished product. I find usung a basecoat/ clear coat process easier for garage painters like me. You can lay down the color in with a fast drying Base and only have to watch the coverage and the metallic (if used) pattern. The gloss comes in a seperate step, so all you do at that time is watch for the gloss. Its real tough for anyone but painters who shoot several times a week ( day?), to develop the ability to balance paint coverage, mettalic pattern, and gloss without getting runs and sags. Painting is probably about 90% prep and only 10% painting, but the prep determines the results. Spend some time reading the posts over at autobodystore.com Most of all---Good luck, and keep us posted! |
#5
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this is exactly what I am planning to do this winter. I am getting a rust free 300SD (116 body) and plan to use alll the parts from my (previously VERY nice) 300SD that was hit by an idiot.
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1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL 1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7 |
#6
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Sounds like a big but very do able project. Your in AZ so finding a shot but straight and rust free body shouldn't be hard or expensive either. The interiors come out pretty easy, engines and drive trains don't look to hard either. By doing this it would give you a good chance to replace a lot of rubber parts, like mounts, seals, and flex discs. Not to mention all of the old body seals.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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