Howdy, folks.

I've been reading here for a few days and have been really impressed with the people here. Thanks for the great forum!

I'm looking at buying a '79 300SD for about $1000. Southern car, no rust, starts easily at 18 degrees F, smokes a little cold and at take-off but settles down when warm, everything else reasonably ok. Too old for carfax and the odometer is broken. Current owner says odo hasn't worked since he got it and that it's stuck at around 34k miles. I know that sounds a bit suspect, but given that it starts easily (therefore has reasonable compression) and that it's only $1k, it sounds like a good deal to me.

Can y'all tell me specifically why I wouldn't want a '79 model, or this particular car? Any weak spots in that year?

Thanks!
Darren

You've already spotted that rust is the weak spot for these.

For $1000 if you got at least 6 months use out of it it would still be cheaper than payments on something new, what have you got to lose?

Kevin

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'85 300SD

Go for it! I can't think of anything to steer you away from it. If it starts at 18°F what more could you want?

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Broken odometers are not suspect, they are common failures on these cars, and very repairable.
Look for the usual signs of excessive mileage; worn brake pedals, wornout seats, ect.; but don't be too concerned about mileage for that price. These are, after all, one of the few cars in existence that go for many, many miles.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

Just have it checked by a reputable Mercedes mechanic, so they can look all under the car, check for tranny leaks, and test the compression of the engine. Weak compression means a rebuild may be needed soon. Does he have all service records?
-Joe

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

The things already said are true....
Odometers should not be used when looking at a car... they are too easily messed with..... and an old car with lots of miles and a loving DIY owner gets penalized when it should not be..
Look at the physical condition of the car... forget the odometer..
If you decide not to get it.. post it here..and see how fast it gets snapped up... LOL

They are good cars.

I have a 1980 300sd and over the last 18 years the only large expense was replacing the transmission (at a little over 125,000 miles). The climate control system has required repair a few times and right now, it needs a new switch or something that is probably electrical. I have heard that this is one of their weak points. Also had to rebuild the front end at around 175,000 ($800 +/-). Other than this, it has only required routine maintenance (brakes, oil changes, etc).

My American made cars have been much more expensive to own and most of them probably would be in the junk yard by now at that mileage.

It has 203,000 miles and I expect many more miles on this one before it needs replacement.

I don't see how you could go too far wrong at that price.

If it starts when cold at 18F the compression is just fine. You don't need a compression check. Cold diesels with low compression have trouble starting in cold temperatures. Just make sure when you go test it again OR buy it, that its absolutely bone cold and then check the starting again. The guy could have started it before you showed up to test drive it. Was he using a block heater before you arrived? I'm not a trusting soul.....



Good compression, no rust, $1,000? What are you doing sitting on your rear reading this, go pick it up.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

Because.... I would LOVE to own it!!! The parts alone will sell for more than $1000.00 on eBay.

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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

I'd be most concerned with the tranny. Few things worse than having a car go 100 miles then no further because the tranny was held together with snake oil. Then you're stuck with doubling your investment or recovering 20%.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

"Tell me why I should NOT buy a '79 300SD "

I would say if you cant or dont like to work on your car dont buy it. The 116s are really nice cars, some say the best of the older Benzes. Usually there are a lot of little things to fix on these older ones and if you have to pay someone itl cost ya lots. For sure, buy it if your a little handy and dont mind getting your hands dirty.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I would JUMP on that car if it was close to me................NO RUST....$1,000......dang....these only reason to avoid one is rust.....if it has lots.....

If you don't buy it send me pics........and details........I may want it.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I'm a fan of the old blowby test,if conditions and the mood of the seller don't allow for more comprehensive examination.

Pull the cranckase hose from the air cleaner and see how much blowby is pushing thru,generally a cold motor will give you a good deal.It's an acquired skill though.

A warm engine however should give you only moderate pressure,you put yer finger over the hose opening and you should encounter little resistance,scored cylinders will also telegraph noise thru the hose end.

I have bought, sold and used a fair amount of diesels. One 300d with only 95,000miles would choke on it's own blowby after a hard run up a hill,my current 300 turbo with 210k runs as new.

By all means insist upon a compression,or better a cylinder leakdown test if the owner is willing to do this.

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For 1K...probably a good deal. I'd ask to have it for a day or for half a day. Take it to you local indy and ask him to give a quick overview of the car. He'll check it out for you and tell you if it's worth the 1K. I mean if i paid $1K for it and then turned around and had to pump $4k into it just to get it in good condtion... i'd say NO. But typically your going to have to pump money in it for that price. No rust would be absolutely great. Have it checked out frist, then get back with us to let us know about your findings.