where can i order these wooddruff keys from? also where can i find the tool that tells how retarded your valve timing is? i dont want to just align the notches it always seems to be inaccurate.

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• 1993 Mercedes-Benz 400E *146,000 Miles*
• 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel Biodiesel *SOLD @ 346,000 Miles*
• 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel Biodiesel *SOLD @ 284,000 Miles*

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1985-Mb-300td--Turbo--Wagon-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1985%40%401985&makeid=MB%40%40MB%40%40X&modelid=300%2DTDT%2D001%40%40300TD+Turbo+Wagon&catid=A%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=A4190@@Camshaft+Woodruff+Key&mode=PA

from the 'BUY PARTS' link at the the top of the page - or call PHIL to look for parts you cannot find. (his number appears on the page when you look in 'BUY PARTS'.

look in the 'Resources' section for 2mm valve lift method

there is no tool to tell you how retarded your timing is (via chain stretch).

remove GP's or injectors to facilitate in rotating the engine and getting the marks to line up better.

If you are really, really anal about this. Do it 5-7 times and average your results.

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Of interest to me is your drip timing the engine and checking that timing with a pulse meter dynamically. I suspect if the two do not agree that you correct to the dynamic or pulse indicated position. Until reciently I wondered about there being consistant.

My feeling is a lot of drip timed cars are out of actual indicated timing when running. Actually retarded because of the low fuel pressure problem.

It has reciently been a consideration that the fuel feed pressure present in the injector pump may bias the drip/dynamic match apart somewhat if substandard or overpressure. For a real accurate drip test the injecton pump feed pressure should be corrected if bad first. Other benifits may arise from this as well.