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#1
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Anyone replaced steel fuel lines and/or brake lines?
The steel fuel line (I think it's the feed line, not the return one) running from tank to IP has started dripping diesel fuel - leaving a puddle when parked. Anyone know of a cheap fix - I've heard that labour to REPLACE with new lines is huge. Thanks in advance for the help.
1986 190D 2.5 Auto; 347K |
#2
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I cannot see any reason why you could not use fuel hose for this. Of course, you would need to keep an eye on it over the years, but, the hard lines didn't last forever, either.
The only concern is how to properly secure it. You might need to drill some holes and add some clamps to do it right. How difficult is it to change the hard lines? Routing problems I presume. |
#3
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Quote:
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#4
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Thanks guys for the ideas - do you think it's better to cut the bad section of the line and run the hose in its place? I want to avoid as much labour as I can.
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#5
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If you're looking for cheap, the cut out the old line-DON'T USE AN AIR GRINDER!!OR ANY POWER TOOL TO CUT!!!-and replace the bad part with fuel injection hose. Their is a difference between fuel hose and fuel injection hose. The FI hose holds up ot more pressure. It's not that there is much pressure going through the line, but I would think the FI hose would last longer than the "regular" hose.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#6
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Fuel line.
You could consider cutting out bad section of fuel line with small tube cutter and using compression fittings and piece of steel line between them. If rust is not too prevelant or advanced on rest of fuel line. Cheap and effective. Then just take a 3/4 inch brush and grease the rest of the line to retard future corrosion. Have found specialty type hoses pretty expensive myself but there are probably exceptions. I do not recomend any of this for brake lines. One other alternative is to go strip plastic fuel line from junk volkswagen diesel probably 85 or newer and work it in with short coupling hoses if needed. Possible same plastic fuel lines used on their gas models but my bentley manual is not clear on this and I do not recall one way or the other. I would do this if the whole line looked questionable. The vw fuel line is quite flexible and easily removed from junk car. Or it could just be used for the section of fuel line that is bad now as it should thread through old fastenings quite easily. Remember you asked for economical solutions. The only concern I have about the vw line is that I do not remember the diameter but suspect approx. metric equivelant of 5/16 inches.
![]() Last edited by barry123400; 02-09-2005 at 04:04 AM. |
#7
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Check out my post where I completed a similar repair. You need 5/16" steel line, I bought my sections at Pep Boys (brake line). Be glad your leak isn't in the back like mine was. Bending the new piece to match the end of the old one took an hour for each one, but I did get it!
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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD 1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick |
#8
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WARNING!!!! Carefully go over your brake lines! They run side by side and are made out of the same stuff. I had a fuel leak and when I looked at my brake lines their wasn't much left in some spots. Good thing I had a fuel leak!
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#9
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Quote:
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1983 240D 4 speed running on B100 and SVO www.b100wh.com/b100wh.html#reactor My Biodiesel Reactor/Processor |
#10
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I do it several times per year.
Three rolls of steel tube from the auto parts store. A flaring tool. A hoist. There are two ways to do this: #1. Form fit the new line = $$$$$$$$ = Days #2. Rough in the line and use P clips with new sheet metal screws to hold the new lines =four too six hours. All people want #1. until they hear the $$$$$$$, then they go with #2. or patch it with gas hose. NOTE: I use hydraulic hose to patch diesel fuel tube, it fits tighter, seals better and never had one fail.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#11
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brake and fuel lines close together.
Never did one of these. If brake line runs along parallel with fuel line like in a lot of designs caution around the brake line is advisable. An old brake line does not want to be disturbed. Thanks for mentioning the possible proximity problem guys.
Last edited by barry123400; 02-09-2005 at 03:59 AM. |
#12
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Remember, always double flare your brake lines.
Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#13
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Thanks for the fast replies and the great tips - will do a hydraulic hose patch for now and order the new brake lines; there's too many spots where they're weak to fool with them. Guess it's to be expected after 19 winters in salty Ontario.
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