Bump..

Cause I was not able to find one.

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Cheers,
Robert

I would be willing to bet that it does not. EGR, in the early days anyway, was strictly for meeting US NOx emissions.

Is there any news on when it will be available again this time (I already sent in my name by email)? I can't wait to be able to free up some engine room.

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J. S. Park

'82 240D Manual 240D (sold)
'83 300D-T 230k (sold)
'84 300D-T 118k (sold)

Patience my dear boy.

All good things will come to those who wait.

The intake and exhaust plates are done. I need to polish the intake plates and am awaiting the arrival of the sealant. I still need to get the EGR gaskets and the button head cap screws.

Maybe another week before they are ready to go.

Anyone else interested in a kit, just send me an e-mail, as noted above.

You shall have mail shortly...

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Brian: I finally installed your kit on my 240D today. Its awkward on this engine because the valve mounts on the underside of the manifold, and the nearby exhaust manifold connection is also cramped to get to. After removing the valve and connecting tube, I solved the problem by cutting the protruding vacumn part from the cast body, screwed the valve body to a block of wood using the mounting holes, and formed the copper disc on the tube connection surface, which is identical to the exhaust manifold connection. By hammering and repeated heating (copper hardens from hammering) I was able to form a lip around the connection similar to the tube connection. The fit was snug albeit not as tight as the tube. After applying the copper sealant, I tightened the clamp snugly (carefully following your screw thread precautions) and I believe the copper was not deformed, and hopefully should not leak. Even the tube connection showed some evidence of slight leakage of soot, so with the sealant I believe it should be a tight seal. I'll find out after it cures for several days. The weather here in Wisconsin is finally starting to break, and maybe I'll be able to get my Benz out of the barn and back on the road by next weekend. One suggestion I might make though for anyone trying this procedure, is to make the copper disc slight larger in diameter in order to form the lip. I was able to "stretch" the copper around the edge by hammering, but a little more diameter might have made it easier.

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DHB

I believe that you struggled to form a lip on the copper plate that mimics the corrugated tube. There was never any intent to form a lip around the exhaust manifold to mimic the original corrugated tube. This is very difficult to do and, I'm quite surprised the copper disc was large enough for this.

The disc is to simply rest inside of the clamp. When the clamp tightens down, the disc is forced against the face of the manifold. The sealant can properly dry in this condition and it should not leak.

If it does leak, because of the misshapen copper, let me know and I'll send you a replacement. You only need to form the copper to the face of the valve or manifold (your choice).

Brian,

I haven't sent an e-mail request for one due to one reason. Considering that I'm generally not too confident to touch anything directly related to my engine yet, do you provide instructions on how to remove this EGR with your kit? I believe my EGR may be stuck open - my transmission shifts have become harsher since I bought the car a year ago. I haven't yet tested it but this is just my gut feeling after driving some older, higher mileage 300SDs with much better shifting than mine. Sometimes under full load, the shifts are fine but some other times they are jerky. And even if not stuck open, I still want to get rid of it. Let me know if instructions are included so I can send an e-mail request for one.

Thanks,

Richard

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1999 Mercedes-Benz S600, 103K miles - garage queen
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver
2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver

Richard,

There is a complete set of instructions for the kit, and, I guarantee that you won't have too much trouble with it. My main concern is for folks to get the clamp back on the exhaust plate without stripping it and I'm pretty direct in the instructions on how to do this.

As of this writing, nobody has stripped the screw for the clamp, AFAIK.

Once you have the valve off, the intake plate can be installed in two minutes.

BTW, it's not likely that the valve itself is leaking. Much more probable is the sequencing valves on the top of the valve cover inside the black box.

After the kit is installed, you can eliminate all of those valves and associated rubber hoses that are probably ready to be replaced.

Thank you Brian. I've sent the e-mail.

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1999 Mercedes-Benz S600, 103K miles - garage queen
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver
2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver

Brian: Thanks for the follow-up information. I haven't started the engine yet, but what is your method for testing the copper disc installation on the manifold for leaks?

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DHB

kit status? Not pestering...just curious.

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

He'll be going up to CT to get the components this week. Still waiting for the sealant and the gaskets.

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1999 Mercedes-Benz S600, 103K miles - garage queen
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver
2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver

Is there a blocking plate kit for my 99' E300TD? If so, should I install one? Thanks,

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Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)