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  #1  
Old 02-14-2005, 11:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
EGR blocking plate kit

Due to several requests, I will again offer an EGR blocking plate kit to allow all owners of 617 and 603 engines to completely remove the EGR valve "for testing purposes."

The kit consists of:

1) intake plate made from .125" stainless steel
2) (2) SS button head cap screws
3) OE EGR gasket
4) exhaust plate made from .017" copper
5) tube of copper sealant good for 700°F.
6) Detailed set of installation instructions

When completed, the kit will look similar to:




The cost of the kit, including shipping, is $28.00 provided that a minimum of 25 people want to purchase one.

So, if you wish to purchase a kit, please send an e-mail to hpcs@csi.com and let me know how many kits you wish purchase.

No money is required at this time. I need the minimum number of people before I go and make the plates and purchase all the remaining components.

I will advise on the forum when I have the required minimum number of people and I will then advise via e-mail when payment is due.

Please do not post your desire for a kit on the forum. I need a separate e-mail to keep track of all interested parties. Kindly refrain from sending me an e-mail (unless, of course, you have some questions regarding the kit) unless you are positive that you wish one of the kits. Last time there were quite a few "no-shows".

You can see the original development of the kit in this thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=73877&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 02-15-2005 at 05:22 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2005, 09:54 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
We have a good start.

Within 12 hours, there are 10 members who would like a kit.

Keep those replies coming!!
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:35 AM
Dance'w'Diesels's Avatar
1984 300D
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 157
Thumbs up

Brian, I got your kit this past weekend. Everything looks great, thanks!
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2005, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 159
I need some education here.

Could you explain what an EGR is and why you want to remove it from the system ? Sorry, I am worse than a novice, but willing to learn
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2005, 02:54 PM
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Location: Deltona, Florida
Posts: 2,360
Click here and read this

Danny
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OBK member #23

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  #6  
Old 02-15-2005, 05:21 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Can anyone advise if this kit will function on a 602 engine?

Is the EGR configuration the same as the 603?

I'm not sure if anyone has previously installed one on a 602 and one member has expressed some interest.

TIA
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  #7  
Old 02-16-2005, 09:42 AM
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We have the minimum number of people necessary for making the kits.

I'll be doing that in the next two weeks.

I'll let everybody know via e-mail when and where to send payment.
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  #8  
Old 03-06-2005, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 41
egr blocking kit for 240D

Brian: I finally installed your kit on my 240D today. Its awkward on this engine because the valve mounts on the underside of the manifold, and the nearby exhaust manifold connection is also cramped to get to. After removing the valve and connecting tube, I solved the problem by cutting the protruding vacumn part from the cast body, screwed the valve body to a block of wood using the mounting holes, and formed the copper disc on the tube connection surface, which is identical to the exhaust manifold connection. By hammering and repeated heating (copper hardens from hammering) I was able to form a lip around the connection similar to the tube connection. The fit was snug albeit not as tight as the tube. After applying the copper sealant, I tightened the clamp snugly (carefully following your screw thread precautions) and I believe the copper was not deformed, and hopefully should not leak. Even the tube connection showed some evidence of slight leakage of soot, so with the sealant I believe it should be a tight seal. I'll find out after it cures for several days. The weather here in Wisconsin is finally starting to break, and maybe I'll be able to get my Benz out of the barn and back on the road by next weekend. One suggestion I might make though for anyone trying this procedure, is to make the copper disc slight larger in diameter in order to form the lip. I was able to "stretch" the copper around the edge by hammering, but a little more diameter might have made it easier.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2005, 12:57 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhbecker
Brian: I finally installed your kit on my 240D today. Its awkward on this engine because the valve mounts on the underside of the manifold, and the nearby exhaust manifold connection is also cramped to get to. After removing the valve and connecting tube, I solved the problem by cutting the protruding vacumn part from the cast body, screwed the valve body to a block of wood using the mounting holes, and formed the copper disc on the tube connection surface, which is identical to the exhaust manifold connection. By hammering and repeated heating (copper hardens from hammering) I was able to form a lip around the connection similar to the tube connection. The fit was snug albeit not as tight as the tube. After applying the copper sealant, I tightened the clamp snugly (carefully following your screw thread precautions) and I believe the copper was not deformed, and hopefully should not leak. Even the tube connection showed some evidence of slight leakage of soot, so with the sealant I believe it should be a tight seal. I'll find out after it cures for several days. The weather here in Wisconsin is finally starting to break, and maybe I'll be able to get my Benz out of the barn and back on the road by next weekend. One suggestion I might make though for anyone trying this procedure, is to make the copper disc slight larger in diameter in order to form the lip. I was able to "stretch" the copper around the edge by hammering, but a little more diameter might have made it easier.
I believe that you struggled to form a lip on the copper plate that mimics the corrugated tube. There was never any intent to form a lip around the exhaust manifold to mimic the original corrugated tube. This is very difficult to do and, I'm quite surprised the copper disc was large enough for this.

The disc is to simply rest inside of the clamp. When the clamp tightens down, the disc is forced against the face of the manifold. The sealant can properly dry in this condition and it should not leak.

If it does leak, because of the misshapen copper, let me know and I'll send you a replacement. You only need to form the copper to the face of the valve or manifold (your choice).
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2005, 05:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 1,213
Brian,

I haven't sent an e-mail request for one due to one reason. Considering that I'm generally not too confident to touch anything directly related to my engine yet, do you provide instructions on how to remove this EGR with your kit? I believe my EGR may be stuck open - my transmission shifts have become harsher since I bought the car a year ago. I haven't yet tested it but this is just my gut feeling after driving some older, higher mileage 300SDs with much better shifting than mine. Sometimes under full load, the shifts are fine but some other times they are jerky. And even if not stuck open, I still want to get rid of it. Let me know if instructions are included so I can send an e-mail request for one.

Thanks,

Richard
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1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver
2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2005, 09:09 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Richard,

There is a complete set of instructions for the kit, and, I guarantee that you won't have too much trouble with it. My main concern is for folks to get the clamp back on the exhaust plate without stripping it and I'm pretty direct in the instructions on how to do this.

As of this writing, nobody has stripped the screw for the clamp, AFAIK.

Once you have the valve off, the intake plate can be installed in two minutes.

BTW, it's not likely that the valve itself is leaking. Much more probable is the sequencing valves on the top of the valve cover inside the black box.

After the kit is installed, you can eliminate all of those valves and associated rubber hoses that are probably ready to be replaced.
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2005, 09:12 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 1,213
Thank you Brian. I've sent the e-mail.
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1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL, 89K miles - daily driver
2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 31K - daily driver
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