My well maintained 103k mile 240D automatic recently started stalling occasionally when slowing or coming to a stop within the first 5 minutes of operation. I thought it was possibly a clogged fuel filter so I replaced both the primary and secondary filters that I had installed back in Oct '04. During this simple procedure, I clumsily leaned against the check valve on the start/stop mechanism that controls the shifting and shut off functions and broke off the 2 fittings. Of course after this, the car shifted very abruptly(I'm talking whiplash!) and wouldn't shut off without operating the stop lever under the hood. Replaced the entire assembly with a used unit and shifting calmed down, but:

The car still stalls occasionally when coming to a stop when cold and now it doesn't shut off for about 5-10 seconds after the ignition key is turned to position '0'. Before I broke the original start/stop cable, it always shut off immediately. I found the procedure for adjusting the start/stop mechanism at the injection pump in my factory service manual, but I'm still trying to figure out why it stalls when cold. My fast idle is turned all the way counterclockwise. Any ideas? Thanks.

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2002 500SL(Black/Black)
1992 300SE(Black/Black)
1992 190E 2.3(White/Navy)
1999 VW Jetta TDI(Pearl Green)
1986 SAAB 900 Base 3 door(White)
1983 Porsche 911SC(Chiffon)
1977 VW Scirocco(DiamondSilver)

Mine used to stall exactly like that until I adjusted my rack damper bolt/pin. Do 240/616 IP's have them? If they do then I'd check/adjust that. Mines a 617 so I don't know if they share the rack damper in common....I'd think they would though.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Thanks pawoSD. I'm going to follow the procedure in the manual for adjusting the start/stop mechanism. I can't find anything in the manual about adjusting the rack damper bolt/pin. Can you elaborate on the procedure you followed?

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2002 500SL(Black/Black)
1992 300SE(Black/Black)
1992 190E 2.3(White/Navy)
1999 VW Jetta TDI(Pearl Green)
1986 SAAB 900 Base 3 door(White)
1983 Porsche 911SC(Chiffon)
1977 VW Scirocco(DiamondSilver)

Essentially, on mine anyways, it is a bolt located on the back of the injection pump (facing the firewall/oil filter housing), towards the bottom of it. It protrudes and you can see if you look closely a locknut, and the bolt itself, loosen the locknut first, then you will be able to adjust the rack damper freely(outer bolt) make adjustments in either direction while its running, you should be able to feel and see the engine shake more when its out too far. You want to rotate it to the perfect spot right between shaking and no shaking, it took me a few tries to get it perfect. Once this is done, retighten the locknut while making sure you're not rotating the rack damper pin along with it. This solved my cold start/idling problems. I am not sure if it would be the same on the 616 injection pump, but I'd think it'd have a rack damper just like the 617....since they would both be performing the same function (controlling idle/engine shake) and such.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

The 240D doesn't have a rack dampener bolt.

It sounds like something is still fishy with your vacuum system. Maybe something is routed incorrectly and supplying partial vacuum to the shutoff device when it shouldn't be.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Same here for my thoughts on a leaky/faulty vacuum system telling it to shut the engine off.

but back to the fuel issue... the car has 103k on it...it has had to have sat for some periods of time here and there. Theres one last thing to check, the fuel strainer in the tank.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350