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  #1  
Old 02-28-2005, 09:19 AM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
Slipping in 1st gear..

my trans is slipping pretty bad but only in 1st gear. You have to depress the pedal and it will slip until about 2500 rpm and then it will gradually engage..once it gets up into the upper gears its just like normal - 2nd 3rd & 4th all engage like they are suppose to. Is it likely that the transmission is bad? I've checked the bowden cable thing and also checked to see if the kickdown was stuck..all checked out ok. Any ideas?
Had the guys at the local benz shop check it out - without test driving it they said that its probably just worn out. This is the original trans and the car has a lil over 315,000 on it. What can I expect a rebuild kit to cost?

Edit: I have checked the fluid level also.
Looks good, doesnt appear to be burnt.

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2005, 09:44 AM
vwkess's Avatar
never enough time...
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 186
Does it take a while for it to engage into D from P? If so, sounds like the B2 piston. If not, might need a rebuild...
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2005, 10:06 AM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
yes..it engages pretty slow and acts like it is engaged, but you hit the gas and all it does is slip.
Where is the B2 piston and how do I fix it?
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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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  #4  
Old 02-28-2005, 10:35 AM
vwkess's Avatar
never enough time...
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 186
http://transmission.articles.mbz.org/b2/

Good luck! Seems like it is easier to pull the trans on w123 cars. Pull it out and check the piston... if it's broken, you've probably found your issue. I wouldn't drive as it is; you'll probably end up burning out one of your clutch packs too.
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2005, 10:46 AM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
yeah - they list parts for a W126 and stuff so I'm kinda unsure if that DIY page is even meant for us 123 guys.. mine has all of those symptoms listed on that page though!

I'm just gonna drive it home and let it sit - I only live a mile or 2 from work but it still sucks driving it like it is
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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:46 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
I was reading on MBZ.org that it can be done on W123s without pulling the transmission. Removing the driveshaft and other key components are required in order to make the transmission "fall" down. I'll be taking mine apart tonight and checking to see if it is in fact the B2 piston. It has all of the symptoms so it should be intresting to see.
Edit:
Just talked to my parts guy at the local benz dealership. Looks like the B2 piston isnt all that expensive, $67 my cost, $130 for walk-in..nice savings
all of the other little things are between 2-3 bucks.
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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque

Last edited by SYRacing; 02-28-2005 at 02:55 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-28-2005, 05:21 PM
Biodiesel Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 11
Slipping in 1st gear...

My 83 300SD is slipping in first gear too, and bad! Over a year ago, my alternator belt broke and took out the tranny coolant lines, and it was never the same. Now getting it to go is a joke, I can't go over a speed bump from a stop. Once it starts going, she is a champ. Just don't stop too much at stopsigns, and anticipate your stoplights, and she is a great car.
If it is the B2 piston, that would be nice. Right now I'm looking at turning my 79 300SD into a parts car for its tranny. I'm pretty sure it is compatible.

I look forward to hearing how it goes for you.

79 300SD (Blue)
81 300D (Grey)
83 300SD (Goldie)
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2005, 11:19 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
Got it out..sure enough. It's broken. Removed it with the transmission in the car, driveshaft removed, exhaust unbolted, cross member dropped...now if I can get the new one in there with it still in the car
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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2005, 05:29 PM
Biodiesel Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 11
If the new B2 piston makes the tranny work like it should, that is great. Sounds like I have a B2 piston replacement in my future. Its cheaper and easier than a new tranny! That doesn't usually happen, does it? Maybe all the other little things I have to fix will be cheaper and easier too.
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  #10  
Old 03-01-2005, 05:37 PM
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Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Are you working with the car on a lift, or are you on jackstands or ramps? Have you been taking pictures of the process?
Keep us posted.
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  #11  
Old 03-01-2005, 06:48 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
no pictures.... I have the car on 4 8 ton jackstands.
I'm at my wits end with the stupid seal that just has to be replaced according to the DIY guide...cant seem to get a 90* pick in there to pry it loose..it still has the metal bushing and I got the plastic one and a new seal....what a PITA removing this stupid thing!
There is plenty of room to work with it once you drop the crossmember and disconnect the driveshaft.
the DIY guides have no mention of this seal removal process so I'm going at it my own way...mbz.org says its an easy fix..lol
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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2005, 09:31 PM
Newbie Benz Dood
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Posts: 147
well I figured it out....used a butter knife (cuz its very pliable) *spelling*
and a hammer to seat the knife in the backside of the seal. Took 5 minutes total....my lil snap-on pick set wasnt getting the job done.. anyway, the new one is in, I used a little bit of wheel bearing grease to get the pin to sit straight inside the piston...worked like a charm. I have a headache today so I'll be putting it all back together tomorrow...here is a total of everything I took off in order to allow enough room to change..

Cross Member
Exhaust (seperated from downpipe and routed around tie-rod end so its out of the way)
Driveshaft removed from flex disk...this is a lot easier when you have the crossmember unbolted...the 19mm nuts show like a sore thumb..
Transmission linkage - I just knocked the lil german e-clip thingy loose and pulled it away from the floor shifter.
It makes it very nice to have an "assistant" to help with the prying..it is kind of close but it sure is nice to have someone on the business end of a 52 inch prybar
I had him pry towards the drivers side and down..there are several points on the transmission to pry from...good luck to whoever tackles this...it wasnt THAT hard

One other thing...I noticed on my valve body the casting date of 11 - 82....my car is an 83 so my question is that could this still be the original transmission? When I dropped the pan there was not an excessive buildup of clutch material or anything...hmm 315,000 miles on an original transmission

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1992 300TE 4matic - Just obtained 12/22/06
1983 300D - SOLD
1997 Dodge 2500 - CTD 400+HP, 1100ft/lbs torque
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