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#1
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300D Loping
I replaced the glowplugs on my 1984 300D about two months ago. In the process of replacing plug 5 I removed the injector line from line-five on the injection pump. The little line just popped out of the pump and a little rod was left in the opening. When I replaced it, I inserted the pump line back over the little rod and tightened everything down. Upon startup I had a small engine mis-fire but nothing major. It went away after that initial startup. It seemed this mis would come back sparatically. The only probelm is that the mis is now not sparatic and it has changed into a lope. Like a cylinder is not firing. What is my problem and how can I fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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I don't know what rod you're talking about, I presume you must have taken the delivery valve off along with the line?!
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#3
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I guess, I have no idea. Im just wondering what I have to do to get my car running right again!
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#4
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Quote:
good luck is all I can say...........you should never have loosened what you appear to have loosened if you saw a rod...
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#5
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Did you loosen the bottom nut, or top nut?
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#6
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I loosened the two nuts on top of the FI pump. Then I just pulled the line and the thing popped out with a little "shloop" noise. Then upon completion, I put the end back in, lining it up directly on top of the rod and re-tightened. To start the car I had to relieve preasure in the system with the little pump and then it started.
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#7
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Any help? The car is running terribly. At idle the thing feels like its gonna cut off.
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#8
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Benz_man600
I think you need to describe it better, take a pic or something, I cant figure just what you,r talking about, "little rod" ?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#9
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When a diesel runs like you describe and the filters and fuel flow are ok, I next suspect that an injector is clogged. With the engine running, one at a time loosen each fuel line where it attaches to the injector to relieve the pressure and see if the engine slows/lopes. The one that makes no difference is the one that is clogged.
You will be working with very high pressure fuel but in small quantities, take precautions. This procedure is listed in many places on this forum if you are not clear, search. Good luck. If you loosen the line on #5 and no fuel leaks, suspect that you caused a problem as you mentioned earlier. |
#10
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whoa, back up a little, guys--
"I loosened the two nuts on top of the FI pump. Then I just pulled the line and the thing popped out with a little "shloop" noise. "
Here's the clue. If it's the 2 nuts that straddle the fuel injector pipe, that's territory where mortals fear to go. From what I have heard on this forum, loosening those fasteners puts that cylinder out of time with the other four. Add any possible missing parts to the mix and you will get a lope at all engine RPMs. It's time to pull the IP and take it to a Bosch rebuilder to get that part of the pump recalibrated.
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Nate Stanley (Currently Benzless) 1985 F-250 6.9l 170K 2009 SCION XB 36.5K 2003 LS430 78K 2012 Kubota B 2320 |
#11
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Check the easy stuff first, keep it simple. There is a very real possibility that you damaged the injection pump but run some tests like I described above before you tear into anything.
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#12
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wow, i cant believe something like that would ruin the timing. I think I might have done that. Im a little upset but im going to run those tests first to make sure, if its the pump, im S.O.L.
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#13
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Well if the pump is ruined, at least they can be had used for rather cheap.
__________________
Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#14
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If you know what you did, then un do it,,,
Loosen the two nuts and turn one 1/4 of a turn in say clockwise condition. Has the condition improved ? If yes (or same) continue in the same direction. Go another 1/4 turn same or better? yes continue, worse? Add up all the quarters and start in opposite direction. Since you only messed with one Injector line, you should be able to fix it. Also the length of the injector line is crucial, I don't think there is anyway to change the length, but I thought I would throw that in.
Why buy another pump when you can 'play' around with this one for free? http://www.benzbonz.biz Marty Last edited by mespe; 04-06-2005 at 07:52 PM. |
#15
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I have no idea what the theorey is behind the operation of this part. Is there anyone here who can explain it to me? I dont understand how me pulling the line and inserting it in the "same" position would ruin timing. I will try to turn the "rod" inside the whole and see what happens. Thank you all so much.
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