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1985 300TD Won't Start W/O Starting Fluid
Hello. I recently got a 1985 300TD. It had been sitting at the last owner’s house for some time. The fuel line has been repaired but we found another leak. I will be repairing this tomorrow. I don’t know if this has anything to do with it not starting up. The glow plugs have been tested with a circuit tester to see if electricity goes though them and they all passed. The relay switch looks ok. Do you know what would be the cause of it not starting without starting fluid?
Also, I will be going to the junk yard tomorrow and wanted to know if the grille from a MB TD will work with my 85 300TD? Will any other interior and body parts from different year’s MB cars & wagons would work on mine. ie: glove box cover, driver’s seat back, attena… |
#2
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Did you check the resistance of the glow plugs? They should be less than 3 ohms I believe. you can test them in place, just take off the wire & put one lead on the end & one on the block right above it or on the brass nut part.
Starting fluid on a Diesel is BAD news!! You REALLY shouldn't do it, you can literally break your engine, make it try to fire in the wrong order & break a chain, cam, piston rod, ect....
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Michael Roth 1982 300TDT Wagon 1982 240D Euro!, 4spd manual-Parts car now, dead engine 88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-fixing up for offroading 1989 Ford F150 (rust bucket) For Sale! 1953 Dodge B-4F, 1 1/2 ton Stake Bed (new restoration project) |
#3
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Just finished doing my GP's. You have already confirmed you're getting power to the GP's so the relay and fuse are OK. The easiest way to test GP's is disconnect the 5 pin plug leading to the GP's at the relay on the LF fenderwell. Test each GP to ground with an ohm meter, they should be around 1 ohm resistance. If they show open they're done for. 1 bad one will make the car a little hard starting, 2 bad ones and it likely won't start.
And.....back away from the starting fluid or you could change your $30 problem to a $3,000 problem. GP's are available from these guys: http://www.thebenzbin.com/ Good luck,
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Doug '83 300SD "Old Gold" 170,000 mi. '82 380SL "Green Machine" 190,000 mi. Some days you're the pigeon, some days you're the statue... I'd rather be the pigeon! |
#4
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Quote:
STOP USING STARING FLUID!!!!!!! NOW!!!!!!! do a search on this forum, this problem has been asked many times before. almost 100% of the time your GP's are bad.
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-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#5
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As for useing other parts....?
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#6
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Do you think that if i let the glow plugs cycle a few time then try that may help?
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#7
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cycling GP's should help a little (can't hurt!)
For starting use WD-40 instead of ether type of starting fluid. It's safer on the cylinder walls as it won't remove lubrication like ether does.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
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Ok, i know there are other types of MB that are either D or TD now do any of them have the same relay and glow plugs?
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#9
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Quote:
1978-1985 300SD 1981-1985 300TD 1982-1985 300D They all use the same basic '617' 5 cylinder diesel I would buy a set of GP off fastlane
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-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#10
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MB 300D's from somewhere in the late 70's to 1985 were W123 chassis and all of them should have interchangeable grilles. The 240D's of almost the same period to 1983, I believe, should also have the same grill. As far as relay and glow plug, you will need to look and see if the wiring has separate wire going to each plug or a wire going to firewall end plug and heavy zig zag bare wire in between the rest of them.
Almost all of the interior parts of the W123's are interchangeable as long as the color match is not a problem. Front seats are also in this category. Some had black plastic switch panels where the fancier 300D's had Zebrano wood, and there are different positions for various switches in the panels with different years and models. Pays to have pictures or diagrams with you when you are a newby, and sometimes even if you are not.
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#11
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Yeah, i think i have the Zebrano wood, Its kinda red-ish. I will get some pictures up in the morning.
Thanks for all the help so far. |
#12
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While a spray oil is much less dangerous for preignition than starting fluid, it still shouldn't be used with glow plugs on.
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#13
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Gents please correct me if I am off base but isn't a 617 engine designed with pre combustion chambers.....as in there isn't any way to get any kind of fluid into the cylinder before it is ignited. In other words no way to damage cylinder walls with ether or starting fluid.
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#14
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Here are the pictures
Can anyone tell me what these parts are for that i found in the back? |
#15
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Quote:
Far left looks like the outside seat trim. Middle bottem is the end for the tank vent line. Not sure about middle top. Rubber on the right looks like exhaust hangers. Does the car smoke heavilly at idle?
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section |
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