I have finally finished installing a custom-made accessory gauge panel out of the burlwood hinged-door cubbyhole in my '99 E300 Turbodiesel and am really pleased with the results...I figured I'd post some pictures and helpful hints, as well as a list of parts and tools for anybody who has nothing better to do and might have had an idea to do this or something similar to their own car! All in all it was relatively easy once I did a little research and tracked down the parts and other info I needed to use.

Parts Used: (all VDO Visions Series gauges, VDO accessories and DIN 3 gauge panel insert-which I used as a template to mark for cutting the burlwood door panel-were purchased from Egauges.com)

-1 VDO p/n 150-121D/ 0-25 PSI turbo boost gauge
-1 VDO p/n 350-104D/ 80 psi oil pressure gauge
-1 VDO p/n 332-103D/ 12 volt electrical gauge
-1 VDO p/n 360-002/ 80 PSI oil pressure sending unit: Size M12 X 1.5K
-3 VDO p/n 240-023D/ Wiring kits
-2 VDO p/n 600-402D/ Stud mounting kits 52mm (for oil press and volts gauges)
-1 p/n PAN-001/ DIN panel insert(used as template to mark burlwood door for cutting)
-1 MBZ copper crush washer for oil pressure sending unit mounting
-1 3M Brand 22-16 gauge (red) electrical splice quick-connect
-2 3M Brand 18-14 gauge (blue) electrical splice quick connects

Tools Used:

-1 17mm slim profile open-ended wrench (to tighten oil pressure sending unit to base of oil filter housing in a factory pre-tapped and capped bung)...I used a Craftsman Brand #429929 wrench that I ground down the open-ended head to a thickness of 5mm to gain enough clearance.
-1 Torx T-40 insert to remove the metal screw-in plug at the base of filter housing where oil pressure sending unit is to be mounted.
-1 HIGH QUALITY 2" hole saw- for cutting holes for gauges in burlwood hinged door panel.
-2 Becker radio removal keys (need to remove radio to release cubby-box from console)

Additional items needed...(if you chip the clearcoat over the burlwood cutting the gauge holes, and need to fill the chips and refinish the panel like I did!):

-1 Spray can of Minwax Brand "Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane"
-Several sheets of Wet/Dry 600, 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper to wet sand the previously mentioned refinished cubby door
-1 bottle of Mother's brand Plastic Polish to finish buff panel to flawless glass-like shine

Things I learned through the process:

-To release hinged-door cubby box assembly from console, first remove radio to gain access, and below radio opening is one small plastic tab on top of the cubby box that you carefully push down while simultaneously gently pushing cubby box out of console from behind.

-The cubby box/door/ frame assembly is two pieces- you need to remove the back enclosed portion of the box from the frame/door assembly to give clearance for the sides and backs of the gauges. To remove this back of the box, I used six wood shims that pressed out the pressure clips holding it in place. Once all six clips are pressed in, gently work the back half of the box out.

-The "VDO Visions" style volts and oil pressure gauges have a "spin-lock mount" This mount is too wide to fit in the panel/box and you must use the above mentioned "conventional" VDO 2-stud mounting accessory kits. The boost gauge does not use the spin lock method and already has the proper mounting posts attached.

-CAREFULLY pre-mark the burlwood panel with the DIN Insert as a template so that the gauges will fit within the door/frame assembly- (it is a VERY close tolerance), then EVER-SO-CAREFULLY and SLOWLY cut the three holes out. The wood is backed by a thick aluminum backing panel for strength, so it will take some time to cut through it. Did I already mention how carefully this must be cut?? I was impatient and ended up chipping the clearcoat in several places. Have no fear- I had to fill the chips and totally refinish the panel with about 6 coats of the Minwax spray urethane-proper drying times observed- then progressively wet sanded, and finally thoroughly buffed with Mother's Plastic Polish for a mirror-like finish. The refinishing is TOTALLY indistinguishable from the original factory finish! I recommend it highly!

-To route oil pressure sending unit lead wire and boost pressure vacuum hose, you must drop the driver's side under-dash panel to gain access to a pre-cut and black plastic-capped firewall hole- it is just below and outboard of the master cylinder under the hood. Route boost pressure vacuum hose through and tap into the line going to the boost pressure regulator on the driver's side of the engine compartment right next to the intake manifold via a 3-way "T" fitting.

-Oil Pressure sending unit install is unbelievably easy except for the REALLY cramped quarters...at the base of the oil filter housing is a small 3/4" diameter screw-in cap requiring a Torx T-40 insert to remove. Researching this "bung" at the parts counter at my dealer, I discovered that it WAS for the installation of an oil pressure sending unit at one time...apparently it is no longer used and the hole is just capped. The above mentioned VDO sending unit is a direct screw-in for this hole and seals with a copper crush washer similar to (but smaller than) your oil drain crush washer. Route the wire from the sending unit through the same path as the boost line.

-Finally the electrical tie-ins for the gauges are simple as well. I used the 3M Brand electrical quick-connects to splice into the wires going to the cigarette lighter. One is for ignition controlled power on, one is for night illumination, and the last one is a ground.

All told it took me about a month of on and off sweat labor, and about $260.00 in parts!
It all works great, and looks like it came from the factory this way...definitely worth the effort!

J.G.

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