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  #1  
Old 05-10-2005, 08:46 AM
TX76513's Avatar
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Cure for stuck Ignition Lock

Visted many threads on the dreaded stuck ingnition lock and combined some of the thoughts on vibration. The thumbnail below shows the key inserted into the top sandpaper fastner of a common vibrating sander. Works like a charm in just a couple of seconds. I repeated the process several time to assure myself it was not a fluke.

Now for the exchange of wisdom. The 126 has one slot to insert a wire in the #2 position to remove the plastic colar, and then the lock cylinder. Rotating the key I found the hole and it goes in aprox. 1/2 further but I cannot rotate the collar counter clockwise (even with needle nose pliers). Should I feel something release? Threads indicate the collar should unscrew easily . I noticed a tool for removing the collar ($35 ). Need some wisdom please.

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Cure for stuck Ignition Lock-mvc-027s.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 05-10-2005, 03:43 PM
carson356
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Exclamation brass key

i tell you what the cure is don't use brass keys!
if you look at the picture it is clear that the key is brass that is a major reason for them to fail, everyone should avoid brass keys at all costs!! i work at a mercedes shop, and 99% of jammed ignition locks the customers are using brass keys, usually if they are brass the have been copied by someone other that mercedes, go to your dealer spend a few dollars and get a steel key, all they need to order the key is the vin number and proof of ownership. the brass ones loose shavings over time and this will jam the tumblers not allowing them to turn, especially on higher mileage cars, the steel ones do not loose shaving and usually last much longer
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Old 05-10-2005, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carson356
i tell you what the cure is don't use brass keys!
if you look at the picture it is clear that the key is brass that is a major reason for them to fail, everyone should avoid brass keys at all costs!! i work at a mercedes shop, and 99% of jammed ignition locks the customers are using brass keys, usually if they are brass the have been copied by someone other that mercedes, go to your dealer spend a few dollars and get a steel key, all they need to order the key is the vin number and proof of ownership. the brass ones loose shavings over time and this will jam the tumblers not allowing them to turn, especially on higher mileage cars, the steel ones do not loose shaving and usually last much longer
Dude speaks the truth.
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  #4  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
Dude speaks the truth.
Guess they used brass keys in 85 Key is OEM just like my SDL key(s) BUT since you work in a MB shop - tell me how to get the cylinder and colar off
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  #5  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:04 PM
carson356
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brass keys

Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Guess they used brass keys in 85 Key is OEM just like my SDL key(s)
they never used brass keys, even the older factory keys with the double side were steel, unless copied, send me a close up of the key, i will tell you if it is factory or not
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  #6  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carson356
they never used brass keys, even the older factory keys with the double side were steel, unless copied, send me a close up of the key, i will tell you if it is factory or not

Best close up I can do with this digital
Attached Thumbnails
Cure for stuck Ignition Lock-mvc-001s.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:12 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Best close up I can do with this digital
That door key looks origional...
The ignition key though...does it have the same "Huf" or whatever it is written on it where the metal meets the plastic (written in the metal)?


The key pictured in the sander is not origional. You can see how the plastic is weird and also how the proprotions are all off.
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  #8  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:12 PM
carson356
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keys

Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Best close up I can do with this digital

that is not the same key that was in the original post picture the second one is steel, send both full size to my email mercedessd@cox.net
if all else fails use a magnet

Last edited by carson356; 05-10-2005 at 04:19 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carson356
that is not the same key that was in the original post picture the second one is steel, send both full size to my email mercedessd@cox.net
if all else fails use a magnet
Picture of both in email
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:22 PM
carson356
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keys

Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Picture of both in email
i received both, the one with the blue twist tie is definately brass
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  #11  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carson356
i received both, the one with the blue twist tie is definately brass
Twist tie is my sander key - I will look at the red dot key when I get home.
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2005, 04:33 PM
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I just replaced the cylinder on my 300SDL last week.
I used the new cylinder to mark my insert pin so I
new that it was set in all the way.
You might try jiggling the key with the pin in
to make sure that (key stock) on the old cylinder
drops. The outer ring/collar has a groove on the inside of it.
When you insert the pin it drops the (key stock) out of
this groove, this lets you unscrew the collar, which is about
2 to 2.5 inches long.

I used a large bent needle nose pliers, it marred up the
ring/collar but not to bad.
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2005, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Guess they used brass keys in 85 Key is OEM just like my SDL key(s) BUT since you work in a MB shop - tell me how to get the cylinder and colar off
PO had a brass key, which is why I had to replace the tumbler about 5 days ago. This is the 3rd tumbler this car has had. Brass keys wear faster than the steel MB keys, and the filings gunk up the tumblers.

I don't work in an MB shop. But you already know how to get the collar off, as the subject has been discussed to death. Put the wire in the hole first. Then turn the key toward position 1 as you are simultaneously pushing in on the wire. Sooner or later the end of the wire will find the hole and go down into it, freeing the lock cylinder. At this point you turn the collar CCW, use a piece of rubber if you lose your grip. If this doesn't happen there is something you are not doing correctly or your cylinder is screwed and you'll have to go ahead and drill it out. Not impossible but that steel is tough.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2005, 03:55 AM
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when my tumbler got locked it wouldn't budge with any vibration or lubrication. i ordered a new key and that was able to turn it. if u are not about to get the collar out try this, i think i remembered it from when i took mine out.

insert pin into the hole. at the same time pull back on the key (that is inserted) try to do this while rotating the collar as well. i remember i had to rotate it out until it got stuck on the key, pull the key back a few more mm, then continue rotating it.
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2005, 08:02 AM
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OK it's out
Conclusions:
#1 - 126 has one slot and shop manual secifically states using a 1.25 rod 1.3 or 1.5, paperclips, wire does not work - this made all the difference in the world. Lesson learned, if it says 1.25 then use 1.25
#2 - There is a collar removal tool for $32. I bought a pair of 90 degree bent needle nose worked great.
#3 - Vibrating sander worked very well (many times)
#4 - 123's and 126's are different
Attached Thumbnails
Cure for stuck Ignition Lock-mvc-006s.jpg  

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