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oil
yeah, i looked at my owners manual and see that 10w30 wont work in this weather. so i will have to locate some synthetic with heavier weight.
thanks for pointing this out to me. i am used to using rotella in my diesels and you all say it isnt the best for the 603 and i am not yet solid in my sources for the correct oil. |
Dude the blowby on my 300SD makes the oil cap bounce off its seat.
You can seal up the air intake area with silicone (the oil seperator specifically), replace the breather tubes etc, and never know you have that much blowby. It'll run fine...trust me... :) |
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Meaning you leak oil from the oil cap too? If so, is there one that seals better or anything I can do? |
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Mine barley seeps oil out the cap when it is tight...I am thinking of using some form-a-gasket and sealing the rubber part to the cap and then relying on the pressure between that and the metal to seal well. |
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I did find out that my oil cap is incorrect for my SD so that is one problem (it's some plastic Mercedes one), the other I know my valves need to be adjusted. Not sure if valve adjustment has to do with oil from the oil cap. I swear it's off an M119 motor that the digits read under the oil cap, I'm just far too tired to go out and look at it currently. |
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Maybe the seal was bad but I like the plastic one I have better...it leaks but not as badly...(for now)... |
Can the seal be replaced?
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From a cost standpoint, if you drive Rotella synthetic 5K miles and you drive Rotella-T 3K miles, they are very close to the same cost. Rotella synthetic is still $13.00 per gallon at Wally. |
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I bet a fuel cap would work. Those are still made out of metal. My mom drove off without putting mine back on so she lost it. I bought another one and it's MB but looks just like the older oil caps. Try it.
Thanks David |
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I think all of the new style oil filler caps are the same. The fuel cap trick doesn't work on the 603 at least.
Well I think I will buy it tomarrow. What the heck it is either this $500 300SD or some GM car for $1k-$1.5k. |
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