You would think that after the raping my SDL has given me I would not buy another W126, well...

As some of you know I have been looking to purchase a winter/school car this year. Basicaly something to drive from Nov-April to protect my SDL from rust and let me perfect it. I had planned to buy a newer car for $2k or so but this 300SD has come along.

It is a 1982 300SD with 220k+/-. I have known the owner for years and known the car for years. I think he has had it since almost new, but recently he has been starting to drive his W220 so the W126 is sitting at his office. I can't refuse the oppertunity to pick up a nice 300SD for $1k or less so I think if it runs good I will jump on this one.

I don't care about cosmetics but the paint is actually very good at least as good as my SDL's if not better in some areas. It has a few dents and dings I think I could knock a couple out myself and ignore the rest. The interior is ok the drivers seat was replaced a few years back and the rest is ok. It is gray. The wood is actually almost perfect accept for the center console peice. It has a bunch of rust but the body is solid. The jack points are solid with only a little surface rust, as are the sway bar mounts and that beam that runs in the front wheel well. I can stick my fingers threw a couple of the doors but thats ok I can patch that up.

I havn't driven it yet but I know the suspension was gone through and rebuilt at just below 200k and the trans was done at 100k or so. Just from looking at it in a parking lot it seems very tight and clean with no cracks in the bushings. One tie rod end has a torn boot but I don't care that is a $10 part. The wheels have been redone and the tires have 50%+ tread left. The brakes also have tons of life left. The underside of the engine is wet but no drips. It looks like something from above probably the valve cover or oil filter stand.

When the owner gets back from his long weekend he said he will give me the keys and let me use it for a few days to go over it and make sure I want it. I am friends with him and he knows I like these cars so next week I will drive it and go through it for a day or two before I decide to buy it. If it looks good under the hood I will buy it.
I'd like to get it for $1k or less($800 ) and put $500 into it in a major service. Then drive it for as cheap as possible for 3 years or so.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Good luck with your potential purchase. For $1000, I do not think you can go wrong.

You sound like me talking- I do not care about dings/dents on my daily driver either (if I ever find one), but I hate rust- luckily it is not an issue here.

Good luck- keep us posted.

Any Mercedes that is road worthy, not a rust bucket, and runs, is well worth $800.00. IMHO. I say go for it. Post some pics on your few day test drive for us.

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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

Hey, an investment of $1500. to keep the $12K SDL out of the salt baths......................seems like a no brainer to me.

For $1000 you can't go wrong if it runs and drives decent!

Cheapest 300SD I picked up was an 82.. sat out in a corn field for a few years when the car was no longer used by thier daughter.. they said it ran fine when they parked it. I went out, put in a new battery, new glow plugs and it fired right up! Ran/Drove great with 260k.. picked it up for $300.

Hatty, ya just gotta buy it. Perfect idea if you don't mind a bit of rust. Car should run a long time and you already know how to fix most things on it. Plus, it means Alan and I will be gaining on you! (that is if ya'll haven't already beat me.) I figure I've got a little over a year till I hit 250k. We want pictures of your new ride.

Driveline wise this car is extremly nice, the owner has a lot of money and doesn't think twice at dropping a couple grand a year into a car.

From what I know probably about 4-5 years ago the body was redone at a local tech school. The paint is actually very nice if the body was dent free the car would be pretty sharp. Two of the dents I could probably knock out myself. It is black. The doors are pretty rusted but the important structural parts seem to be rust free. Even under the rear glass the gasket seems newer. The exhuast looks very recent it is still shiny. I think if I put $500 into it I could have a perfectly functional driver, and since I would just fix what is needed to make it reliable I could probably run it for 3-4 years for super cheap.

Theirby protecting my $12k+ SDL from road salt and college!

I will call him Tuesday the deal should be done if it drives and checks out before the week is done.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Its almost mine! It needs a new battery but I have a good battery I can use until winter. Thrusday afternoon I should be picking it up. I will just change the oil for now and go through the whole thing. One jack point is kind of rusted out and one sway bar mount is rusty as well. But I have seen worse.

$500 for the car, $1,500 is my break and sell point. I have decided I don't want another money pit so if repairs get above $1,500 with no sign of letting up it will be for sale. But since this car is a beater I will only fix driveline related things that are needed to make the car go!

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

What about the a/c and the electric windows??

I don't need AC I'll just drive my SDL on hot days!

If the windows work and the heat works I will be happy. I can put in a new radio/CD player for $100. I want to upgrade the speakers in my SDL so I could put those speakers into the SD. Knowing the way the currant owner spends money I wouldn'y be surprised if the AC and sunroof work.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Hattie,

Congrats on your 300SD and welcome to the 617 club!

I will interested to hear your comments as you compare and contrast your 300SD and 300SDL.

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Anders

1995 E300
2015 VW TDI Sportwagen 15K
1977 240D (197K)
2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon (115k) (Wife's)
Gone but not forgotten:
2005 Buick LeSabre
1998 C230
1984 300D
1983 240D
1981 300SD
1974 240D
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
1968 Triumph TR250

Better cover your ears.

I can hear it now. "This POS shakes my teeth, is slow as hell, and makes more noise on the highway than Mack truck".

You have to own a 617 powered vehicle first and then graduate to a 603. It cannot be done in reverse.

Sheesh, a W126 as a beater. I bet the Mercedes engineers are laughing in their graves, seeing an S-Class being classified as a beater

On the 617 and 603 engines, my 300D Turbo (after adjusting the ALDA) feels jumpier/livelier off the line (gives you a little whiplash) than my mom's 300SDL. I would adjust the ALDA on the 603 but it looked like a PITA so I just left it. That 603 absolutely kicks the 617's ass on the highway though, sometimes I'll look down and see im going 90 mph, it gets there pretty easily and quietly.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

Mine do exactly the same thing. The 617 is much quicker off the line. The 603 almost feels "slow and stately". But, once the revs come up, hold on! It's surprised more than a few gassers who didn't get the kickdown in time.

Brian, if your car is slower off the line than a 617 you should adjust your ALDA. It seems to me that the 603 is quicker off the line than my '79 SD was. And the '79s were supposedly the fastest 617s.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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