I doubt it will make you feel any better, but the exact same thing happened to me when I owned the W123. Spent about $800. getting the system running properly at the indy including a new compressor and expansion valve and dryer.
System flushed properly.

It lasted two years and the compressor seized. Had to spend another $700. all over again at another indy.

First indy commented that they sometimes do not do so well because of the lack of lubrication due to their orientation. I wonder if the front plate position has something to do with this???

i am wondering about conversions for the 123s to anything other than the original delco. a more modern japanese compressor sounds attractive... any body know of a setup like that?

vintage air has a conversion plate to replace the old york compressors with a modern japanese one.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Hey Dave,
I was driving in Colleyville today without AC. Wow it was hot today. I was getting 4 white hubcaps at Don's place, and also an IP shutoff valve. My AC compressor is also seized, and the pulley is cracked. I'm trying to decide which way to go with the AC also. I don't know AC work, so will have to have someone do it. Ouch$$$

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

The "Black Death" sucks.
If you have R-12 you can flush the condenser. If you converted to 134A then the condenser should be replaced.

The reason is the R-12 condenser is a single pass while the 134 compressor is a multi-pass and usually will not flush properly.

If you keep having trouble you may want to consider an in-line filter.

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

If Black Death has happened to your last compressor the MB AC FSM says the metal manifold at the compressor must be replaced.... that it is not flushable...

I do think that flushing the condensor should be done out of the car so that gravity can be neutralized by turning it around during the process...for larger particles....

I wonder if anyone is able to do an ' autopsy ' on siezed compressors ?

Once I remove the compressor I can determine if it was a black death or a bearing seize. I have a parallell flow condensor so I must replace it under the black death senario. Black death is usually a result of not removing the mineral oil and adding the ester oil for R134a.
My system was completely rebuilt with all new parts except the manifold hose. The old AC system was rebuilt due to an evaporator leak not a system failure. Every components was new except the manifold hose and it was completely flushed with mineral spirits and then AC flush.
Synthetic oil was used, the proper amount. The system was evacuated to 29 inches for 3 hours and R134a added. I did have a schrader valve fail and all the R134a was lost. I replaced the valves and added 2 oz of oil, that was the amount I "figured" I lost with the vavle failure, the system was evacuated again and R134a added. I did not replace the dryer. I kept some freon in the system by capping the schrader valve with the dirt cap and then when I had the new schrader valves I quickly installed them and evacuated the system right away so I felt the dryer was exposed to "air" just a longs as when you initially install the dryer.
So hopefully this is a bearing failure not the black death. Can't get to it today or tomorrow, Flying. So I'll find out Saturday.

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

I am aware of the manuals advisory about not flushing the manifold hose. I'm trying to figure out why? It is a very large diameter inner hose and if out of the car can be manipulated to flush quite easily. All the other components can be flushed but not this hose. Again, just trying to figure that one out. when I flushed mine I did not have any particles come out of the hose. Again the hose did not "require" flushing due to black death.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

I may have used the wrong words...or that crazy translation deal may have popped up... I do not think I am referring to an hose or hose end.. I think they meant a metal " manifold" next to the compressor...
However, I will check my AC manual as soon as I can..
Greg