I pulled the worn tranny out of my 300TD and have started putting a "new" one in. Is there any trick to get the bolt holes lined up???? I had it just a little bit off where the TC hit one part of the fly-wheel and the engine would not turn, it was locked up tight. But as soon as I pulled the tranny back (un bolted) the motor turned fine again. Any tips to get the flex plate bolts lined up right???

Thanks guys

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-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
---
1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
--
2000 Bichon (Doby)

Pretty much how you're doing it is the way to go. Loosely bolt in the trans and line up the flex plate to the converter. It may take some jiggling but keep at it and you'll get it.

I just did one on a 211 this morning, its disapointing a 2003 car needed a trans already. Coolant in the ATF...

Do you still need that driveshaft? I'm going to flip the car on its side soon and pull out the rear suspension among other things...

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

"I'm going to flip the car on its side soon "

To others reading this... Don't try this at home....

Randy, I suspect you do not have the torque converter fully seated. Rotate that TC back and forth while pushing back in ever so slightly. It will go back in further. Look at distance between mating surface on engine compared to flex plate and mating surface on trans compared to TC. There should be extra room when TC is fully seated. When you put trans back, TC will be able to slide back and forth freely.

With the torque converter in place but NOT fully seated it is possible to assemble incorrectly as you described. It will appear as if it's OK, except you need to put more pressure on the bolts and then the engine feels tight. Don't ask me how I know this.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

John, I'm not sure yet if I need it, its not for this car, but another 300D I haven't had time to work on yet. So I'll have to check on that.

Thanks for the other replys, I'm gonna try to install it again tonite and see what happens.

Thanks

__________________
-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
---
1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
--
2000 Bichon (Doby)

Well, I got it to go in right this time. Everything happened just like it should. I was suprised that the TC still turned freely when the bellhousing was tight. Guess you learn something new everyday. I'll have it back on the road in no time at all.

Thanks

__________________
-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
---
1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
--
2000 Bichon (Doby)

Though I know you got yours figured out alright, what about buying some of the proper bolts at a hardware store and cutting the head off? Then grinding it down so it's rounded at the end? That's what my uncle and I do for his old Chevy Chevelle and Corvette, though different animals than our diesels! Just looking for tips since I'll soon be pulling my trans.

Thanks
David

__________________
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Thats a good idea if you are having problems getting the bellhousing lined up. I was using a transmission jack and it make it so much easier getting things lined up. I do believe there are two "guide pins" built into the tranny already, so they helped too. Having the right tools makes a big difference, I would hate to do the job with just a floor jack. My tranny jack is a scisors lift type, and works well. Another pointer is to make sure the engine is supported the whole time, since it has no rear mount, it tends to tip down, and that will throw off lining the tranny back up.

thanks

__________________
-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
---
1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
--
2000 Bichon (Doby)

I don't think I'll have any issues with it now that I think about it. The trans jack we use has chains and arms to hold the tranny still. Also, it has a tilt adjustment in every which way you could imagine.

Thanks
David

__________________
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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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