Misc. Steering/Suspension Questions

[83mercedes]

Car is 83 300cdt.

1. This condition occurs only when the car is not moving or moving at very slow speed and occurs at seemingly random times. I turn the wheel to the left and a clunking noise is heard somewhere in the steering system. Any diagnoses?

2. I want to tighten up my steering by putting in a new steering idler arm. I already have one, but haven't been able to locate a good post detailing how to do the job and I don't trust my Haynes manual enough to do it just off that. Anyone have experience with this?

3. When I crawl under my car I notice that the rubber seal on my front ball joints joints is wearing, peeling apart. There are some slight holes/cracks in it. Does this mean I need new ball joints or is it just normal rubber wear?

4. Is it feasible for a DIYer to align the steering system? I think you're supposed to do it after replacing any of these components.

5. My front end components haven't been replaced too recently, and I'm wondering whether it's time for an overhaul. Periodically large kits are offered on ebay for something like $300 that include all the components necessary for a front end rebuild. Are there any good ways to determine whether I need to start thinking about such a job?

Thanks anyone who can answer any or all (that would be impressive) of these questions.

[83mercedes]

Anyone? Any of the questions?

[dieselbeagel]

I recently replaced most of the front end in my 82 300D Turbo.

The idler arm replacement is straight forward. Installation is reverse of the way things came off.

There have been postings on this site for doing alignment urself. Do a search and it should come up. I took it to a shop.

After replacing the steering tierods and lower ball joints, I seem to have an inch or so play in my steering. Replacing the steering box is an expensive option. The car is about 23 years old. I think I can live with that. Some members on the form have reported the same.

As for the lower ball joints, u will appreciate the ball joint removal tool as compared to a fork. Much easier.

If u intend to replace bushings on the lower control arm and/or rebuilt ur guide mount, it may be prudent to have the correct tools for compressing the spring.

[83mercedes]

Originally Posted by dieselbeagel

I recently replaced most of the front end in my 82 300D Turbo.

The idler arm replacement is straight forward. Installation is reverse of the way things came off.

As for the lower ball joints, u will appreciate the ball joint removal tool as compared to a fork. Much easier.

If u intend to replace bushings on the lower control arm and/or rebuilt ur guide mount, it may be prudent to have the correct tools for compressing the spring.

I would appreciate it if you or someone else could elaborate a little more about some of these things..... what tools for ball joints and spring compression? The Haynes manual says of idler arm replacement, "remove the cotter pins and nuts securing the drag link and track rod end to the steering idler, disconnect the link and arm using a suitable separator tool." I'm not really sure what a separator tool is, and the rest could use a better description. It also says to lubricate the bushings with oil. What type?

And my question about ball joints was did it sound like they needed replacing, not how to do it.

Thanks for your help, but try and be a little more specific.

[dieselbeagel]

Ball joints - if the grease cover is torn, or ball joint is creaking (loss of lubricant), then good idea to replace.

Idler arm - After removing the bolt, I used a long screw driver from the top and knocked out the bottom bushing and then pushed out the upper bushing from below. The old bushings were worn out and popped of easily.

I sprayed the bushings with silicone to aid pressing it in. I used a long bolt and 2 big washers and pulled the bushings in.

The tool for the ball joints is the kind where u tighten a bolt on one end and the other pressed on the top of the ball joint while gripping the lower control arm. I do not have a link showing the tool. DO a search on ball joints and some have posted links with pics.

[Dropout]

Originally Posted by dieselbeagel

Snipped

After replacing the steering tierods and lower ball joints, I seem to have an inch or so play in my steering. Replacing the steering box is an expensive option. The car is about 23 years old. I think I can live with that. Some members on the form have reported the same.

Snipped

Why not adjust the steering box? Loosen the locknut and adjust the centre stud. You know you've gone too far if the steering doesn't return after turning.

[83mercedes]

Can anyone answer questions 1 or 5? Don't be shy .

[jcd]

For #1: My guess for the clunking is a worn out guide rod mount.

For #5: If the front end hasn't had any parts replaced "recently", then that may mean never. For my 1977, when I rebuilt the front end, with help from my tech, most if not all of the parts were original, my Dad was the original owner. To support the job, I spent about 6 months buying individual parts on e-bay and filled in the gap from Fastlane. I then did all the work, except for those parts that needed the spring's removed, and I had my indy do that work.

Just curious, what drove me to this was I was burning up Michelins in about 1 year. How's your tire wear on the front?

[TimFreeh]

Originally Posted by 83mercedes

Can anyone answer questions 1 or 5? Don't be shy .

Don't be shy about using the search functions - most of your questions have been answered many times in the past.

W123 front ends seem to need rebuilding every 175-250K miles. It is not normal for any of the rubber boots to be cracked. The front end work is not difficult but it is heavy, dirty and potentially dangerous. You will need a fair share of specialzied tools (spring compressor, ball joint press, tie rod seperators, ect)

IMHO this is not a good job for a beginner DIY'er - if you don't know what the above mentioned tools are or how to properly use them I'd find a more experienced mechanic to help you through the process or let a pro do it.

[t walgamuth]

first if you adjust the steeering box, the center allen needs to turn anti clockwise.

second if the boots on the ball joints are torn or cracked and the joint is not yet worn enough to be loose you can just replace the boots. they cost about five bucks and i have had the shop do it for me for about 75 to 100 bucks labor. this is a big savings over doing the ball joints and will last for a long time.