i know that when i lock the driver's door with the key all the doors are supposd to lock, but mine don't. is there any easy way to fix this?

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the speedometer on my '82 240d goes up 85 mph!

Sounds like a vacuum problem to me. The DIY section has diagrams

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1989 300E 144K

There's no "easy" fix. The door locks on these vehicles are controlled by vacuum generated at a belt-driven pump rather than across the intake manifold as in gassers. Vacuum is also used (dependent on model) for transmission shifting, EGR operation, assisted braking, AC system, engine shutoff, and possibly others that I'm forgetting.

Anyways, the point is, a screw-up in any of these systems can cause a screw-up in all of the systems due to the finite amount of vacuum being produced and it being eliminated upon introduction to normal atmosphere.

So, the first questions in diagnosing this problem are:

1. Are you having hard shifts?
2. Does your engine shut off as soon as you turn the key to "off" position?
3. Do your door locks work intermittently or not at all?
4. Does it feel like you have to push your brake pedal excessively to get it to slow down?

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

1. it kind of lurches into third but everything else is good
2. yes
3. my door locks work, but the others don't lock when i lock the driver's. it's always like that
4. no. my brakes are amazing for a 23 year old car.

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the speedometer on my '82 240d goes up 85 mph!

So it sounds like your pump is generating good vacuum, and it's not being leaked out by your malfunctioning door lock system (your check valves are still good). Almost all of my vacuum was being lost by my door lock system (my engine would not shut off) and I now have it plugged up, pending repairs.

Personally, I'd rather have manual door locks than spend the time, money, and trouble diagnosing and fixing my door lock system. I have a coupe, however, so that's easier for me to decide.

If you really want to tackle this job, however, www.**************.com offers a manual printed specifically on the subject of troubleshooting and repairing the door lock system. I can't vouch for how good that manual is, but their others I have are probably a 7 on a 1-10 scale.

Basically, what you'll be doing is removing door panels, checking for unplugged vacuum lines, then using a mityvac (a hand pump which generates vacuum, at any autoparts store) to pump up the lock actuators and test them for movement/leakage. You'll also test the central locking actuator at the driver's door lock, the main vacuum reservoir and various other components.

Good luck if you choose to try and fix your system!

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

i probably shouls have brought this up earlier: my passenger side inner door panel is removed because i'm fixing a broken piece in the window crank. this door doesn't lock at all. maybe this is related

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the speedometer on my '82 240d goes up 85 mph!

The locking mechanism doesn't work whatsoever? Obviously this will prevent this door from locking, even if you do fix the vacuum problem, but no this wouldn't cause the vacuum problem.

As long as you know how to take off the panels already and everything, I suppose you might as well get a mityvac and test all the door actuators......
it couldn't hurt.

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

but you are going to want to repair/replace that broken locking mechanism as long as you're tackling door locks...

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

First check you vacuum pump output and all the lines in the engine compartment for condition. Fix and bad lines or leaks.

Then go here and trouble shoot your door lock system.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111918&highlight=vacuum+lines+connections+dave

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car