does anyone know where i can get a new fuel tank strainer and gasket for my 1981 240D??

i don't see it on fastlane.

or is getting a new one pointless? should i just clean the old one?

thanks.

Look under Fuel Delivery.

Fuel screen and fuel screen o-ring is what you need.

The old one is often cleanable, but if you take it out, you will probably need a new o-ring anyway. Besides, a new one after 24 years.... less than a buck a year.

__________________
Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

If you are taking out the old one there is another factor you may want to consider. If you want to run biodiesel in your Benz and haven't completely cleaned out any risidual dino gunk in the tank this will become a problem as the gunk from the residual dino will clog up that in tank screen sediment filter and leave you dead on the side of the road.
The work around would be to strip the screen out completely and install an outside-the-tank filter, either in-line or can type near the outlet port. This would be a lot simpler to change on the side of the road than the screen inside the tank.
Now if biodiesel isn't something you are interested in at all then inside the tank is just fine.http://oem.overnightautoparts.com/parts/overnightautoparts/wizard.jsp?year=1981&make=MB&model=240-D-002&category=All&part=Fuel+Screen has them.

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1983 240D 4 speed running on B100 and SVO
www.b100wh.com/b100wh.html#reactor
My Biodiesel Reactor/Processor

thanks for the info...

i have already been running biodiesel (B100) for the last month, so i don't know how much more gunk will be kicked up. i'm not even really sure if the strainer is dirty at this point, i'm just assuming it probably is. reading so much on this forum has led me to believe that changing it would be a good idea.

as a super novice, this part "The work around would be to strip the screen out completely and install an outside-the-tank filter, either in-line or can type near the outlet port" sounded like a german opera to me. i don't know where the outlet port is, or how i would install a filter there. i have already replaced the primary and secondary filters under the hood, so that much i have figured out.

thanks again

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1981 240D automatic 320k miles

pharaoh,

There is a very simple way to check the tank strainer with out removing it. Remove the rubber fuel line from the strainer where it attaches to the steel fuel line. If the fuel comes out in a steady stream the strainer is OK and there is no need to R&R it. If the fuel doesn't come out in a steady stream, try removing the fuel cap.

If it is plugged, the stream will be just a trickle and then the strainer has to be removed and cleaned. There is no reason to replace the strainer if the mesh is not broken. Just clean it.

Fungus will plug a strainer. Then a fungacide must be used to kill the fungus in the fuel system. If the strainer is plugged by fungus, compressed air may be needed to clean it. BTW, I cleaned my 25 year old strainer with compressed air because nothing I had would disolve the fungus. I didn't replace the O-ring. It doesn't leak a drop. I used Biobor to kill the fungus. That was over a year ago and I had to replace only one inline filter since.


P E H

thanks PEH!!!

that's exactly the kind of information i need.

i'll report back on the results.

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1981 240D automatic 320k miles

Yeah, I didn't replace the o-ring either, and it doesn't leak whatsoever. Don't think that really needs to be replaced on principle.

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

The o-ring costs 98 cents. To me, it's worth that expenditure rather than take a chance on another diesel bath.

__________________
Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Regardless of whether the strainer is plugged or not fuel will not flow out of the fuel line unless the engine end of the line is lower than the tank.

When you disconnect the primary filter remove the tank filler cap and blow into the line. In a second or so you should feel the resistance drop as you blow the fuel back into the tank. Get someone to listen at the tank filler and see if they hear a bubbling noise in the tank. If you don't hear bubbling or feel the pressure drop as you clear the line the chances are that your strainer is plugged.

If your tank has never been out in the life of you car it might be the time to drop the tank. I just finished cleaning the tank on my 1975 155/300d. It is dead easy. You should be able to get it out, cleaned, dried and back in in a couple of hours. This operation does require putting the car up on jack stands. A floor jack makes getting th tank back in a bit easer but it is not impossible to do it on your own. Remember to siphon the fuel out. A full tank in your face is not fun.

When you wash the tank remove the strainer, and the fuel gauge. Use regular dish soap, shosh it around a bit and empty it out. That is about all you can do considering the size of the openings. You will probably need a new fuel gauge gasket before reinstalling the gauge. Order it before you start. MB has them but will probably have to order it.

To dry the tank tie a bit of rag or the like on the end of a stick. Stand the tank on it's corner and let the water settle there. Mop around with the rag and get out the remaining water. If you are anal about cleaning it you can pour in a bottle of alcohol and slosh it around. The alcohol will absorb the water and you can mop it out.

Removing the tank will also gives you a chance to inspect everything under the car in this area. Might also be a good time to replace the rubber fuel jumper hoses that connect the supply and return fuel lines to the tank. My tank had two small vent like hoses on the forward right side. Don't forget to connect them.

Whats the ballpark price I should expect to pay to have this done? I didn't get an estimate before but I was told they would take it out, have a radiator shop boil it and put a 3M liner in then reinstall.

I have no where to work on my car that isnt a street or a parking lot

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1985 300D 204,000+ on B100

Sass,

What is the reason you think you need your tank cleaned? Have your filters been plugging a lot?

Hint: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

P E H

It doesnt fill to capacity with fuel, like 4 gal below unless my gauge is really really off, and I need to drop it regardless to change a few of the lines to Viton

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1985 300D 204,000+ on B100

Nitrile rubber fuel lines (stock standard fuel line) works fine with biodiesel. My MB 300D has been running on biodiesel for 5 years now and I have changed 1 injector return line and the short hose after the prefilter (which looked like it was 20 yrs old). No other fuel hose issues have occurred.

Check your fuel and coolant hoses at every service (like you always check your fanbelts) and relace those which are creacked or leaking. This is how it is done for diesel, this is how it should be done for biodiesel.
Viton is an expensive overkill.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.