Symptoms: All systems normal- temp, oil, etc, fine. no idiot lights. Runs cool, even with A/C on, just like it should. I loaded it up with a bunch of stuff and drove about 500 miles before the rear ceased to self level, remaining low. I looked under the hood to find fluid on various parts- too many to determine which part was the source.
Then, while driving, it started a clicking that I suspect is a dry SLS pump attempting to pump fluid that has all leaked out.
I have few tools with me, as they've all been packed. I'm fine driving the rest of my trip saggy-assed, but don't want to do any damage with the pump pumping air- the noise got worse until I quit for the night. it's sort-of a THWAK-THWAK-THWAK, dependent on rev speed, but not correlating exactly with rev speed.
What can I do to limp through the trip? Can I remove the pump? I stupidly have my manual packed deep inside the car, so just trying here for all of your amazing assistance first. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

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Cannondale ST600 XL
Redline Monocog 29er
2011 Mini Cooper Clubman
2005 Honda Element EX

www.djugurba.com
www.waldenwellness.com

it anymore until you find some MB hydraulic fluid to put in the reservoir. Then attempt to find the leak WITHOUT any more driving-otherwise you will destroy the hydro pump!

I just replaced the two hoses that run from the pump-one goes to the bottom of the reservoir, and the other goes under the air cleaner element with fittings on both ends. Maybe your leak is there.

The hydro pump is round, aluminum and by radiator right above vacuum pump- it also costs $1100 at stealer, about $750 at Fastlane. Dont run it dry!!!

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1983 300TD, white, 240k
PAY TAXES ON ELECTION DAY!

You can remove the pump, BUT, you *must* make a cover plate from aluminium/steel/etc to cover the hole in the engine or you will puke engine oil everywhere. You will be sagging near the ground and it will be *very* bouncy. Remember, there are only 4 bolts holding the pump to the head. Don't pull all of themoff the pump, just the long 4.

I hate to say, but you may be too late to save the pump if it's making noise. The 4 little pistons inside there are VERY picky about fluid type and any air in the system. Still, at $100/750 it's worth the effort to try and save it.

Here are some pictures.







HERE is a thread I did on removing the SLS system.

ok,
I'm not at home and have few tools. Can I yank the pump, remove the guts of it and put the housing back on to limp home? is that possible?
if I assume the pump is dead, can I cut off the part that would be the driveshaft for the pump so it does not connect to the engine and spin?
thanks for these replies.
Alternately, if you can give the specs on the block-off plate so I can have a machine shop make one up really quickly that would help a lot.
how big is the hole behind the pump?
thanks again!!!

__________________
Cannondale ST600 XL
Redline Monocog 29er
2011 Mini Cooper Clubman
2005 Honda Element EX

www.djugurba.com
www.waldenwellness.com

ooh, can I take out the drive shaft for the pump by removing the snap ring and then put the pump back on? puhleez say yes!

__________________
Cannondale ST600 XL
Redline Monocog 29er
2011 Mini Cooper Clubman
2005 Honda Element EX

www.djugurba.com
www.waldenwellness.com

Sorry, nope. That snapring holds the shaft in. I didn't try it myself (Thank goodness) but pulling it risks the aux. drive falling in, with the chain. Unless somebody can say for sure, it's better not to try that.

The plate should be 3"x3" 1/8" or thicker stock. The holes are 2-1/4" apart square pattern, 1/4" diameter bolt hole. Off hand I don't have the bolt thread specs (I know they are metric! ).

Duh, I can just pull one of the bolts off the pump...

The bolts sohuld be 6mm dia x 1.00mm threads x 1/2" depth

thanks- I'm not sure what I can do with this on such short notice...
grr. I'll probably try the blocking plate solution I guess...

__________________
Cannondale ST600 XL
Redline Monocog 29er
2011 Mini Cooper Clubman
2005 Honda Element EX

www.djugurba.com
www.waldenwellness.com