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  #1  
Old 12-02-2005, 05:50 PM
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Injector line clamps with sharp points and glow plugs

What smarty decided to put razor sharp corners on all those little clamps that hold the hard injector lines together. I was testing my glow plugs and changing my #3 glow plug and the back of my hands are all torn up from those dad-burn things. I see some quick filling in my near future.

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  #2  
Old 12-02-2005, 06:26 PM
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Changing Glow Plugs

Well ;

The book clearly says you should remove the injector lines for working clearance , I guess we all now know why but it looks like a 1/4" drive flat rate job to me....
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2005, 06:46 PM
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Biodoesel,

I have changed many GP over the years and never cut my hands.

I don't remove anything from the engine either.

What I don't like about those clamps is the loose nut on them. Its hard to reassemble with out droping the nut. Why didn't they tap threads into one of the clamps so the nut isn't necessary. I brazed the nuts to the clamps and it works much better.

P E H
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2005, 10:06 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges

What I don't like about those clamps is the loose nut on them. Its hard to reassemble with out droping the nut. Why didn't they tap threads into one of the clamps so the nut isn't necessary. I brazed the nuts to the clamps and it works much better.

P E H
Good idea on the brazing...

I think they didn't tap the backs just becuase it wouldn't be as strong and the first time someone stripped one out (the metal seems softish?) there would be many a cussword
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2005, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Good idea on the brazing...

I think they didn't tap the backs just becuase it wouldn't be as strong and the first time someone stripped one out (the metal seems softish?) there would be many a cussword
I may do that next time I am in there....
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2005, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Biodoesel,................................................... I brazed the nuts to the clamps and it works much better.P E H
Of course....now you've got rusting clamps, which will rust the injector line and they will fatique there and break.......

They ain't cad plated fer nuthin'....



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  #7  
Old 12-02-2005, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkveuro
Of course....now you've got rusting clamps, which will rust the injector line and they will fatique there and break.......

They ain't cad plated fer nuthin'....



.
hmmmmm thats a good point to consider....
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2005, 11:31 PM
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PEH must have very dainty hands. I've cursed those same sharp edges myself. Must be a kind of Teutonic Nietzschean attitude on the part of the engineers. I bet they've got whips and chains in their bedrooms.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2005, 11:59 PM
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dkveuro and bonehead,

I haven't had any problems and I did it a long time ago.

Perhaps it would be better to tap threads in one half, drill a larger hole in other half and use a larger screw.

P E H
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2005, 12:29 PM
Craig
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Wimps, that's why you have a first aid kit.
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  #11  
Old 12-03-2005, 12:39 PM
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I'm fully convinced that the reservations concerning removal of the hard lines are unfounded. I can remove the five fittings on the injectors in less than two minutes. The five fittings on the IP take a bit longer........maybe five minutes.

So, within seven minutes, the hard lines can be out of your way.

Why work on glow plugs or IP timing or injector return lines with the hard lines in the way? After pulling them several times on the SD, I can't fathom why you would leave them in place??

The only issue is starting the engine. Tighten all the fittings on the IP. Leave all the fittings on the injectors loose. Plant right foot on floor and crank engine for 15 seconds. Tighten fittings on injectors. Start engine.
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  #12  
Old 12-03-2005, 01:12 PM
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I found it tricky to do the firt time, but easy thereafter.

Just make sure you tighten them all down! I gave my engine a diesel bath the first time afte not tightening one of the lines at the pump sufficiently.

Pete.

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