As some of you know, I recently tried to start my car (as seen here http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=138648, and it didnt work out so good )

I've been looking for 0 gauges locally, and I'd even seatle for 2 gauge cables... Cant get them around here at the usual parts stores (only tried 2 out of the 6, but theyre mostly chain stores anyways)

Both had the same thing. They had a 4 gauge 52 inch cables with the right ends, but dont have a 2 or 0 gauge, and dont have part numbers for them...
I've tried ebay, and cant get one. The one I fried was a 52 inch 4ga, with lead ends (for the battery with the screw on leads on the top... its 1100 cca by the way)

So can anybody help me? I've tried to find them, and really cant. Theres a few things that popped up on google that looked like they could help me, but only one could, and it would take a long time (custombatterycables dot com I think, but the guy hurt himself and was gone till jan 1)

Thanks alot, I really appreciate it
~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

How about this:

http://stores.ebay.com/Hi-Tech-Supply_Battery-Cable-Parts

Thats what I need, but he doesnt have the correct ends, and I really dont like crimped on terminals... And cant put on my own ends

~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I was able to find the "bolt on" type terminals (high quality brass) at my local PepBoys.

properly crimped connectors can handle far more current than bolt on ends...assuming you could get the correct type and size in that manner.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Whats all involved in crimping cables? We have a gear press at school. Its a 2 inch solid steal beam, with notches in it. The handles attached to a gear that runs in the slots... It puts out alot of force (dont know rating)... Infact I could accually make the ends If I wanted to... I might do it If I cant find a non lead connector. Can somebody help me? If I make it, what metal should I use, and how should i put it onto the cable?

Thanks alot
~Nate (still looking for "factory" cables)

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Make your own battery cables. It is dead easy. Go to your local welding shop and get home/hobby type welding leads. You can but them by the foot. They probably have at least 3 different sizes. They will also have solder on lug connectors for the starter end of the cable. Go to a parts shop and buy solid brass solder on batery terminals. Get a butane or oxy torch, some soldering flux, and a roll of large diameter solder (not the very thin radio/electronic type).

Cut the cables to length, slip a 2 inch length of shrink wrap up each end of the cable, then strip the cable to fit into the terminal. Clamp the terminal vertically in a vice. Unroll about 18 inches of solder. Heat the terminal quite hot, put a little flux in the socket, put the cable in the socket and feed the solder in until it comes to the top while you continue to heat the terminal. It helps to have an assistant hold the cable vert. in the terminal. Let it cool, slide the shrink wrap down and heat it with a torch.

Never did any non electronics sodering before. So I dont really know what kind of soder to use, or what kind of flux (allways used rosin core, 60/40)

What kind of soder should I use? And when you say put the flux in the socket, the sockets where the cable goes, right? What should I use for flux? Also how can I make it red (thinking of using the red plastdip spray), or can I get red cables?

Just a few newbie questions, thanks alot
~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Always use rosin core solder for wiring work......NEVER EVER use acid core...thats only for sheetmetal work.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

You can find this type of cable at a number of parts outlets for Antique Cars...Look for 6v type cables as they are all 0 or 2 guage..........

__________________
83 300CDTurbo 307,000
2005 Honda Element 266,000
56 Nash Ambassador Country Club Special 34,000(under restoration presently)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=125099

I kinda allready tried that... As said before, I CANNOT find theese locally (I called the other 4 in town today... nobody has one, or the part number)

Thanks alot kip foss, thats EXACTLY what I was looking for. I'm a bit discouraged after the look in a few parts outlets comment... but its all taken with a grain of salt...

Guess I'll try it, as soon as I get the time to run around town to a welding shop...

~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Nate,

Try Home Depot, Lowes or a hardware store for the solder. It comes in one pound rolls. If you get rosin flux core solder you won't need anything else. While you are there buy a butane torch. They aren't very expensive and they come in very handy in the shop. No need to get the entire kit just get the torch head and a bottle of butane. Check Harbor Freight. They have a head with a built in ignitor. I think they also have solder.

You should be able to get the solder on battery terminals at a parts shop. They look like the regular clamp on terminals but have a socket on the end where you can insert the cable. You should also be able to get electrical shrink tubing there. When you are finished making the solder connection slide the shrink tube over the end socket end of the terminal and an inch or two on to the cable. WARM the tube gently with the trouch and it will shrink tightly on to the terminal making the connection look very professional. Hold the torch away from the tube (a few inches past where the blue flame stops) while you heat it. Don't get in a hurry or you will fry the tube. Once you have fried the shrink wrap tube you might be able to get another piece on over the lug end but don't take the chance, it might not fit. Put one of these tubes on the lug end also.

Remember when you are soldering the cable into the terminal socket to get the socket hot before you stick the cable in. To test how hot it is stick the solder in the socket. If it starts to melt then it is hot enough. Get someone to hold the cable in the socket while you keep the heat on and feed the solder into the socket. Be careful not to get too close to the cable or you will melt the cable insulation. Don't worry if you melt it a bit since the shrink tube will cover it.

Remember to strip the cable back to the depth of the socket before you solder it.

This is not a very complicated process and your cables will look very professional when you are through.

Note: Be sure that you get the right terminal on the right cable. The positive terminal is larger than the negative one.