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  #1  
Old 12-23-2005, 05:26 PM
davestlouis's Avatar
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 571
checking value on a car...

OK guys, I have all gassers, but am thinking about diving into the world of diesels...found a rough little 1982 240D for sale locally:

1. chalky maroon paint
2. tan tex interior, fair condition, bad wood on the center console
3. W124-style wheels
4. Euro headlamps
5. noisy wheel bearing on the left front
175xxx miles, 4 speed, but the floors are rusty, I mean REALLY rusty. The guy wanted $1500, I told him I thought it was a $150 parts car. In addition the shop where it's sitting had quoted him $2200 to repair the rust on the belly.

I don't see where this is a deal...if anyone wants to tell me otherwise, please feel free.

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  #2  
Old 12-23-2005, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ware Massachusetts
Posts: 358
Having done a floor in an antique car before I will tell you it is not worth it to do that kind of repair unless the car is very valuble. As the old adage goes you can't make a rusty car new....Don't overlook buying a car from a southern climate just to avoid the rust...Avoid this one...You are right it is a $150....
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=125099
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  #3  
Old 12-23-2005, 06:01 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 76
I'm with Ramblin...

I knew nothing about my car, no records, no nothing.
But bought it because I can find NO rust. It spent several years in Flolrida and many in the Sacramento, CA area.
Only real flaw is the spare tire well was dragged hard enough to wear a hole in the metal, and that hasn't really rusted.
Rubber is great all around, except for fuel lines that are calling for replacement.

I lived in Pennsylvania for 45 years, and remember trying to keep $500 '60's and '70's rust buckets intact. Floorboards gone? I'd part it out...
Never again.

There are LOTS of solid cars in the South and California. You just may have to inve$t in mechanical$ to keep 'em going. I'll rebuiild suspensions, brakes, etc., before I would ever get into a rust bucket.
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Cary, NC

1987 300SDL
203,400 miles
How NOT to buy a MB Diesel:
Know little or nothing about diesels or Mercedes Benz.
Get the WVO fever.
Drive 70 miles to a used car lot in the country.
Buy the car without having it inspected, because it seems like a good idea at the time....
I'll be back. I'm gonna need help.
I love this car already!


1998 F-150 154,000 miles

1994 Geo Tracker 75,000 Miles
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:15 PM
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thanks for the advice...I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track with this...the seller seemed amazed when I didn't jump @ the $1500 price.
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  #5  
Old 12-23-2005, 10:27 PM
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Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,318
Sounds like a parts car. If you can get it for $150 strip whats usefull and junk it. Since scrap metal is worth something now they will tow it away for free.
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Old 12-23-2005, 11:37 PM
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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I don't even have a 123 yet, so I'm trying to do the mental math as far as what the euro lamps and 124 wheels are worth...I have a place to strip pieces off of it (the shop where I work) so that's not an issue, but it would cost probably $75-100 to get it towed there, unless it can be coaxed into running long enough to get it there. I was on ebay tonight, I have had the need to trailer/dolly several of my cars lately, I wonder if I shouldn't just get a dolly and a cheap 3/4 ton truck to yank it around. But then, a cheap truck would be a money pit too...it never ends.

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