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  #1  
Old 12-29-2005, 07:11 PM
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Can the spin-on be overtightened?

Hey there,

I just changed the filters on my '84 300D Turbo Diesel (first time for me). I replaced the o-ring on the shaft with the one from the filter kit, and put the new copper washer on as well. I tightened the top bolt on the spin-on filter pretty tight, but it is seeping a little fuel -- not spurting or anything, but before I changed, it was dry.

Should I keep cranking on the bolt or can you crush-out the copper washer? Or is that what I already did (crushing the washer)?

Thanks in advance,

Steve.

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  #2  
Old 12-29-2005, 07:25 PM
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I tightened mine to right around where I can't tighten it with my gripper wrench, I could do it more, but it'd be veeery hard. I am probably 4x over the spec, thats what I have to do to keep it from seeping. Hatterasguy also has to do this....
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  #3  
Old 12-29-2005, 07:40 PM
Craig
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I also have to make mine VERY tight to keep it from leaking. So far I haven't broken anything.
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  #4  
Old 12-29-2005, 08:04 PM
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Silicone

Try wiping the copper gasket with a small amount of silicone prior to re-assembly. Just a very thin film is all that is needed. No more leaks!
And you can tighten to factory torque specs!
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  #5  
Old 12-29-2005, 08:23 PM
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Tighten it too much and you risk cracking the aluminum casting of the bracket.
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2005, 09:51 PM
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Did you replace the rubber o ring on the bolt before you installed the filter. Most people dont even know its supposed to be there.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2005, 09:55 PM
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I second the silicone. . . Someone please let me know if that is something not to do.
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2005, 09:57 PM
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Silicone is NOT needed. If the o ring was not installed then get one and put it in. Dont put a bandaid on it.
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2005, 10:29 PM
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Guys, the o-ring does nothing to keep fuel sealed in the housing, it is there to keep the filtered fuel from the unfiltered. The copper gasket is the external seal. If you look at a cut-a-way of the filter-head, you can see what I mean, the o-ring maintains interior integrity.

Also DO NOT tighten or turn the filter just hold it and torque the orifice bolt! It really works much better.

A new copper seal, clean up the seat on the bolt and the top of the filter head and torque. I like the silicon idea as well, but use some high flash solvent to degrease the copper seal, bolt and filter-head first.

good luck.
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2005, 10:35 PM
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Silicone works very well

Just a small amount is needed to seal up the pores in the aluminum casting and the copper o-ring. Bearing grease would also work as well. No over tightening (and risk of cracking or breaking aluminum bracket) is needed. Quick, easy, clean.
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2005, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markg612
Guys, the o-ring does nothing to keep fuel sealed in the housing, it is there to keep the filtered fuel from the unfiltered. The copper gasket is the external seal. If you look at a cut-a-way of the filter-head, you can see what I mean, the o-ring maintains interior integrity.
Mark, I had a theory that this was the case for the 123 fuel filter ring but was not sure. I don't know.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2005, 10:47 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anhydrous7
Just a small amount is needed to seal up the pores in the aluminum casting and the copper o-ring. Bearing grease would also work as well. No over tightening (and risk of cracking or breaking aluminum bracket) is needed. Quick, easy, clean.
I'll give that a try next time.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2005, 11:10 PM
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As will I, I was considering using my awesome orange sealant that I used with great results on my turbo drain tube....but I wasn't sure. I seem to have stopped the leaking for now....next time I am going to use a new copper ring + orange sealant, that should do the trick....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2005, 12:48 AM
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great advice

Man, every time I read this forum, I learn something new. First time I've posted a question of my own, and the response is fantastic.

I did replace the o-ring -- almost thought it went on with the copper one, but spotted the one embedded in the shaft of the bolt. I am going to try tightening it a bit more tomorrow AM -- it's raining here in Seattle now & it's too late.

Sorry to be thick, but is it possible to overtighten and blow out the copper gasket/washer? Or is cracking the housing (yikes!) the only worry with over tightening.

Also, where is a good place to get replacement copper washers? I only got one with my two filters from **************.

Again, thanks very much.


Steve.
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2005, 12:52 AM
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I've tightened it to where it was reeealy hurting my hands with a large vice wrench (like today) and it didn't break anything, so I am guessing it can take quite a bit of force.....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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