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  #1  
Old 01-29-2006, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
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Help replacing glow plugs

I have a '92 300D and am trying to replace the glow plugs. It is model 124.128 with the 602.962 engine (2.5L Turbo, 5 Cylinder). Can anyone tell me how to get to the glow plugs?

The intake manifold seems to be in the way. In the process of trying to get to the glow plugs, I have taken off the first three injection lines, the piece between the turbo and the intake manifold, taken apart the throttle control linkage, and a few wire plugs that were getting in the way. It appears that I still need to take off the intake mainifold and the two remining injection lines, which would require removing the cruise control actuator.

Please help me out, I wouldn't think changing the glow plugs would require removing the intake mainfold and the cruise control actuator.

Thanks,
Mark

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  #2  
Old 01-29-2006, 03:30 PM
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Yep it's all got to come off to get 4&5 especially.

http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/Diesel602_603/70010.pdf

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=101366&highlight=preglow+relay
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2006, 04:29 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Just did mine

What timing! Not 2 hours ago I just finished the same job. My #2 plug tested bad; glow light would not come on until after engine was started, and it ran rough for the first 30 seconds. Since my plugs were 8 years & 90,000 miles old (found old receipt from PO), I decided to replace all, not just one. Testing the things was hard enough with the fuel lines in the way. I don't see how anyone can replace these w/o removing the intake. I got the 2 gaskets and plugs and a couple of fuel line clips prior to starting.

You don't need to remove the fuel lines - the manifold will come out around them - only remove the fuel line bracket that attachs them to the manifold. I did not remove the crossover pipe either. It will stay attached to the turbo. Remove the throttle linkage as one piece and lay to the side. No need to remove the throttle cable from the linkage. The linkage rods will separate at the ends relatively easily. The plugs themselves were the easiest part, once the manifold was removed. They were not too tight and there was no crud on the ends. I used some antiseize on the gp threads for good measure. The hardest part was finding the 3 bolts I dropped down below. The lower bolts on 2&4 were the hardest to remove and get started again. I bought at the last minute a hex key set with a ball type on the long end so you can use at an angle. It was invaluable. I wish I had a 1/4" inch drive 6mm hex socket, but I had to make do with 3/8". I would recommend a very long hex wrench, maybe with a t handle.

Overall it took me 5 1/2 hours, which was the same as the dealer charged the PO, so I don't feel too bad. Don't know the book time for this job. While I was in there, I removed the cover off my "virgin" alda and gave it a 1/2 turn CCW - it's always been a little sluggish off idle. Do yourself a favor and replace all gp's - I wouldn't want to do this again for a while. Also, test the linkage for binding and interference before you tighten everything up.

I could tell from my test drive that the alda tweak made some difference. It will do for now. It was not possible to access this with the manifold on.
Good luck!
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:46 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
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Thanks for the advice, its good to know I am on the right track. I only have an L shaped set of allen wrenches, so I'll probably be getting one of those 1/4" drive hex sockets real soon. I was planning on tweaking the alda while I was in there since it is REALLY sluggish off the line (good top end though).

By the way, the previous owner kept impeccable records and there was no mention of the glow plugs ever being replaced. Not bad if a set of glow plugs can last 14 years and 200k miles.

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