had this on another thread,but i thought i would try it on its own.what is the purpose of the fuel element adjusting nuts? the two nuts that are on either side of the element on the IP itself. I dont think this has anything to do with my problem, (see running on 3 and 1/2 cyls) but while i was trouble shooting i loosened these nuts and took the entire assembly out of the pump. the reference i was looking at said to never loosen or adjust this holder,and if you do,the IP has to be bench tested again. Is this true? i put everthing back together excactly the way it was before. like i said it didnt fix my problem, i just want to make sure that i didnt create a bigger problem.
What is it that you are adjusting when moving the holder either left or right?

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1980 mercedes euro 300D 232000 miles(died,now parts car)
2004 2500 ram cummins diesel
1980 harley shovelhead
1988 anniversery corvette zr1(engine)
1978 240D 4spd 240000 miles (new benz toy)
1946 Cessna 140, Continental 0-200

I replied in your other thread. I think removing those is a big no-no.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yep, you did a BIG no-no. The adjustment on those elements are so sensitive that you will never be able to get it in balance with the other cylinders. The only proper way to return it to normal is remove the entire pump and have it calibrated.

I replaced the copper washer and the rubber o ring on the #1 & 2 element about a month ago. It stopped the leak, but now my car kicks pretty good (and with every kick gives off quite a bit of smoke) a little bit on start up until it warms up a little bit and smooths out. I did remove the nuts and holders to do this job. Could this be the source of my problem? Does driving it like this cause damage to the IP?

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

No but the potential to damage the engine is there and probably you have negatively affected your fuel economy. I went through this process with another member on this board about six months ago and it fixed his problem as far as I am aware. Am dropping you a PM as subject is long. But you caused no damage to the injection pump in a mechanical sense that it is going to break. Basically instead you have altered the refference of One and two injection point relationship times with the two you have not disturbed. By the way do not touch the four nuts on those last two or three pump assembleys. A really big help would be if you had reciently set your total pump timing to the engine. Then relocation of Number one would be a piece of cake perhaps. But life being what it is it's not likely that you have done it in the last six months. One of the faults you describe is an advanced timing injector knock by the way I think on startup. Not a particularily good thing long term for the engine.