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#1
03-26-2006, 05:37 PM
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Master cylinder replacement
I am looking to replace my master cylinder this weekend along with the brake fluid resevoir, front rotors, and all the brake pads. Ive checked the DIY sticky's and done a few searches, but I need a bit more info. I will be purchasing a mityvac this week before the job. I am changing the master cylinder because it seems to have a slow leak and also when I press the brakes there is pressure for the first half and then no pressure the rest of the way down.
I have read that I need to bench bleed the master cylinder. Exactly how do I do this? Whats the best method for flushing the brake fluid completley? Does the master cylinder from shop forum come with all the nessecary seals...is there anything else I might need? Any words of caution on what to avoid or to pay careful attention to? Thanks for all your help guys
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior 
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#2
03-26-2006, 06:16 PM
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Answer:
Brake system bleeding, master cylinder bleeding
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1127978#post1127978 You may need the large O ring that seals between the master cylinder and power booster, some kits do not have the O ring. You can call or e-mail Phil to verify the kit you buy from FastLane has it. Toll Free 1-888-333-4642 or philip@peachparts.com Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#3
03-26-2006, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
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#4
03-26-2006, 06:24 PM
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Whats the best method for flushing the brake fluid completely?
Question: Whats the best method for flushing the brake fluid completely?
Answer: A pressure bleeder does the best job of flushing the brake system. Industry Adopts Brake Fluid Replacement Guidelines By Bill Williams, Technical Contributor http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm Brake flush every two years?! U'r kidding right? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=96852&page=1&pp=15 Why should I flush my brake fluid every year, you ask? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=220599#post220599 Brake bleeder recommendation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=455818#post455818 Power Bleeder or what? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=707359#post707359 Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=117258
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#5
03-26-2006, 06:31 PM
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Thank you
Quote:
What are they thinking to write anything like that... The first rule = this is a SAFETY system = always bleed the system when you open it to air... Second rule = no exceptions = refer to first rule. Third rule = if you do ignore the first rule = death and/or litigation...
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#6
03-26-2006, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
A mity vac is mity handy for vacuum work but a pressure bleeder is the best tool for brake bleeding. Just pressureize the system and go around, starting with the wheel farthest away. Bleed till fresh clear fluid comes out., piece of cake. When I do a master cyl I just fill it with fluid (dot 4 only) and install it, never needed to bleed the system or buy anything else.
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 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" Last edited by Brian Carlton; 03-26-2006 at 06:55 PM.
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#7
03-26-2006, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
No amount of time saved in a repair job is worth risking a persons life.
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#8
03-26-2006, 06:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Stevo]
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#9
03-26-2006, 07:00 PM
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[QUOTE=ForcedInduction]
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With a pressure bleeder its so easy to do the job, I just never found it necessary tho  So what could happen, all of a sudden you have no brakes? dont think so
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#10
03-26-2006, 08:56 PM
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dot 3 to dot 4
I am also getting ready to replace my MC. What is the best way to clean all of the dot3 out b4 adding dot4? Is dot4 really better than dot 3?
__________________
85 300D (California) 220k 03 Silverado 1500 Xcab Z-71 Guzzler 90k Real American steel(made in Canada  )03 Suburban 1500 4x2 Guzzler 170k Real American steel(made in Mexico )Diamondback hybrid Element skateboard(mileage unknown) Good news for diesel owners...There's no such thing as cold...only the absence of heat! "Beer is proof that God wants us to be Happy." Benjamin Franklin "Possession....the King of sin." The Avett Brothers
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#11
03-26-2006, 09:40 PM
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Answer
Quote:
The only way to do better is total replacement of the system.
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#12
03-27-2006, 12:30 AM
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[QUOTE=linguica
Is dot4 really better than dot 3?[/QUOTE] Yep..Dot 4 wont absorb moisture, its worth the extra $. With a pressure bleeder its easy to change out the fluid, no assistent needed 
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#13
03-27-2006, 03:42 AM
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Dot4 will still absorb water but not as quickly as Dot3... boiling point is also higher which is what matters. I bench bled my MC before installing it... I didnt have any adapters so I just used my fingers to block the holes.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi
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