We all have our preferences.

I use this:

http://www.olyonline.com/images/lm47.jpg

any special tools needed
 

Can all of this (replacing the front inner and outer bearings) be done without any special tools?

If you are remotely mechanically inclined, 1-2 hours tops. No special tools really maybe just a long punch tool, large set of mm sockets ( crescent wrench will do also ) Clean out all the old grease from the rotors. I usually use brake cleaner, invest in a bearing packer, ( couple of bucks from auto zone ) If you get the packer you will need a grease gun. Bearings are cheap to buy but can cost alot later if yours are bad. PM me if you have any more questions.

Thanks much surf and turf... I see you are a fellow Floridian... I live in Safety Harbor.

I will get the bearing packer.

Rick

I just did mine on my sd and it was pretty easy. The hardest part was getting the outer race for the outer bearing off. You don't have much of a lip to tap on. I took a crappy harbor frieght chisel and ground it to a rounded shape and gave it a few good wacks, and it came right out. Most punches will want to slip of the lip.

i just read about a neat trick- night before doing the job place bearing cups/races in the freezer- makes install easier.

You read right.......dry ice is even better.......and you don't need to wait overnight.

My underestanding is their may be a lot of chinese bearings around that may not be very good. I might try to avoid them. So first try to verify the problem. Jack wheel clear of ground. spin wheel while holding your finger lightly on nearby metal like the lower control arm. If bearing is rough you may feel it telegraphed or transmitted through metal. You have a good comparison of course by jacking up the other side of the car as well. Second is to pop the bearings out to clean and inspect them. There is a lot of refference material out there on the actual inspection and what to look for. The description of your problem does sound like a wheel bearing. Although cannot remember a bearing going bad, healing itself and going bad again but anything is possible. That unfortunatly is about all I know for sure.:rolleyes:

Thanks Barry,
Let me add one more thing... it seems to get worse as I drive. First thing in the morning or after work it doesn't howl but after a little driving it starts.
r

Special tools not really. The only exception is when driving the new race in you always use a piece of brass or brass punch so the race is not damaged. Thats the part the bearing rides on by the way and you do not want to scratch or distort the edge of it. Was reading this thread and think it is a good ideal at least to put the race in the freezer for an hour or so as will shrink it a little and should aid installation. Not absolutly required and I have never done it but does sound sensible. Most of us part time home mechanics have the time for this. In a working enviroment the time factor does not allow it.

More interesting all the time. Sounds like you have a dry bearing. Basically the grease in the rollers that is beyond where you can see under the little cap with the hub on has gone hard or is just not present anymore in any quantity. What you see under the cap is not a good indicator as there is a large washer that can block the grease from the application area where it is really needed. Mind if the inner bearing behind the grease seal you get no indicator at all. Seal back there could have failed with time and water and dirt got in. If you heard the bearings you will probably feel the roughness as should be damaged by whats been happening to them. Do not remember repacking schedule for front bearings on these cars but probably perhaps every twenty thousand. Some have not been done probably since the cars were almost new. The roughness test by the way is a good tool to find elusive bad roller and ball bearings.I have hear that repacked at proper intervals with good high temperature bearing grease they can last the lifetime of the car on this model. Indicates the original bearings are very high quality by the way. Also never a good ideal to leave a noisy bearing problem too long as secondary damage can occur. Does not happen all the time but occasionaly does. Things like the inner bearing race starts to spin on the spindal generating a lot of heat if the bearing starts to seize. Can result in a replacement spindal but not usual and still not really uncommon either. It's what you do not know that usually gets you in my experience. I have been stung quite a few times myself.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!
I will be replacing that bearing sometime this week. Sat at the latest.
Hope this is the problem... and there are no "surprises".:eek:

Well.... I pulled the bearings out and they looked fine, seal was in good shape... no problems. Good thing too... Car Quest sold me the wrong bearings and seals. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR:mad:

I repacked the bearings and tightened them up good following the instructions from the list here. I will see if the howling is there tomorrow.

Well, like I said I repacked the bearings last night and drove the car to work today and again at lunch. Up to 75 mph. No howl... but I am not totally convinced. The noises went away once before.

Again Thanks to all for the advice and instuctions.

I did buy a bearing packer from Northern Tools. It worked great!

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_877850_877850

19.99 in the store.

Those bearing packers are very useful cause most people don't do it right.

Your not supposed to push the grease in through the bearings. The proper way is to put a ball of grease in your hand. And holding the bearing by the top and bottom slap the bearing into the grease forcing the grease inbetween the races.

Or just get a bearing packer. :)

Safety Harbor huh......nice place.

Danny