Check the timing as said above. But get your hands on another compression tester and do the test again. Their is no way one of these engines will run with compression that low. Well maybe if you loaded the intake up with ether it would run for a bit!

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2023 Ram 1500
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No, turn the crank until the mark on the cam lines up then read the degrees on the crank pulley. More than 4 degrees means think about dealing with it, less, you are fine.
Let's get back to the compression test. Test should be run with someone pushing the stop lever on the injection pump. You don't want to be squirting fuel all over the place. Battery should be 70 degrees or so anbd fully charged. Keep the charger on the battery so it can keep the battery as full as possible. Test one cylinder at a time with the others open (injectors removed). Remove the heat shields first or the first test will remove them for you. Spin the engine for 8 to 10 puffs. That is the number you want. First few just fill up the hose. Let us know what numbers you get. Don't get too frustrated or give up. Most of us have had troubles too. We are with ya.
I agree that an engine with 125 pounds compression probably wold not even start, so I suspect something is amiss with the test.

condition of battery seems fine ~12.5v
starter i am not sure

i have read some threads in this fourm that make me scared of those two bolts holding the starter on. sounds like a real tough one!!

if i do remove the starter to get it bench tested what rpm should i be looking for??

The voltage at the battery is of little use in diagnosis. It's the amperage that the battery can offer a cold engine that matters.

Again, the bench test of the starter won't determine whether it will crank the engine with sufficient speed. It's the torque under load that matters. Most shops can't do a proper test for this.

ok so i will take my car to some car parts place and have them tell me if my battery is good (how many amps they can draw off the battery right?)

if it reads good, and a bench test wont help determine the starters performance, then how can i check the "torque under load" of the starter? (or how do i ask a shop if they can test it?)

What did you mean when you said you "glowed 40 times" or "glowed 10 times" etc.....there is no way you could glow 40 times without draining the battery to its demise 10 full glow cycles would probably kill the battery almost completely, thats 60ish amps of current for over 8 mins.

Are you glowing it correctly? I hope your not just turning the ignition on and off and on and off etc...thats not how you glow, you turn it to the second postion, watch the glow lamp, once it goes out there's still another 30 seconds that it will glow, just sit there for 20 seconds or so, then crank it. I just thought this might be what your doing since you said you glowed so many times....it didn't seem right....

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This is an excellent observation.

Hopefully, we'll get the answer we're looking for...........

Some shops can load test a starter. But, it's a lot of work to remove the starter for a load test. You would want to have some certainty that the engine is not turning over fast enough prior to this endeavor.

and this answear you will get: your right i was glowing wrong all winter

about 4 weeks ago when i used an amp meter to test my glow plugs i finally realized that the glow cycle goes on for much longer then the little light on the dash. (go figure...)

so you are correct, before i knew this, i was continuously turning the key on and off when ever the glow light in the dash turned off.

so i guess if you are saying it glows for 30 sec and my little light in the dash goes for 8 sec, and i glow 6 times then 8X6=48. more then the 30 sec but not a whole lot i guess.
does this make sense or is my logic all wrong

i would try glowing the way you have suggested and post my results, BUT winter is gone here in d.c. so my car starts easily now w/ just the 8 sec glow

so is the assumption now that my car isnt hard starting?
just operator error??

and that my compression tester is bad? or operator error?

Correct. Actually, you'll find that the relay time will be closer to 40 seconds.

Correct........but........we need another winter to confirm.


Correct.

WOW

well i cant tell you how much i'm indebted to you for all your advice and help
i really appreciate it

i think i will:
1. check my battery strength
2. check some prices for a compression test from a shop
3. get a compression test, maybe check my tester on my father-in-law's 300CD
4. hopefully return my DOA comporession tester
5. check my ip and cam shaft timing
6. glow PROPERLY next winter
7. post my amazing success on the forums after the fact

i wake up at 4 am for work in the mornings so i'm pretty tired and going to goto bed now but please if you think i should add anything to that list or change the order please post ill check again in the morning

once again thankyou everyone for helping me out!!!! i really owe you all one!!

1. Definitely
2. Don't bother with a compression test at this time. It's a last resort.
3. See #2.
4. Well, it might be the gauge and it might be the procedure.
5. Definitely
6. Definitely
7. Definitely

Good luck with it.

please help me understand why the compression test is a last resort at this point

my understanding is that a compression test is a vital engine diagnosic and if the engine has very low compression i should be considering wether to, rebuild it ($2000-$3000 )put a rebuild in it(~$5500) or buy a new car
(back to the drawing board). If i decide buy a new car i dont want ot keep putting money into this one. This is my only car and gets me to work and back. I am only an aprentice so i have to be careful where i put what little money i have. The tester cost me $100 bucks and if its bad i'm sure my source will refund/exchange me. If i am doing the proceedure wrong i definatly want to learn how to do it right. I guess i am looking for a way for me to know for sure either "it's over shes almost dead, move on" or "no shes great keep on fixing her up!"

Am I putting way to much stock into what a compression test can tell me about the health of my engine?

You've already explained to us that the engine has very little blowby and it also consumes very little oil. The chances of very low compression on such an engine........while I rule nothing out........are almost nil.

So, we recommend the things that will make the engine perform better........and........if we are not successful with all of those recommendations..........then a compression test might be warranted.

Usually, with a compression test, the numbers come back and the individual is right where he started........in a quandry about what to do with the engine. Unless one specific cylinder is toast..........and the test reveals this..........it's not that valuable as a diagnostic tool.

If we can get the engine to start quickly and perform adequately for you, and the fuel economy is acceptable, then you don't need a compression test. If we can't achieve this, then why bother with the compression test........you're going to get rid of the vehicle anyway.

Agreed??

Be sure you have/get the correct type (diesel-1000 PSI) comp tester, are all of your glow plugs (or injectors) removed? If there is a Harbor Freight Tools in your area, they have a cheap diesel comp tester there-be sure your tester has the correct adapter to SCREW into the glow plug port or injector opening, I'd be careful with the oil in the cylinder, she might start on you.

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2004 Ford E-350 6.0 L PSD 227K
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