My passenger side balljoint(s) are starting to "speak up", so I am shopping for replacements.

Who makes the original-equipment balljoints for W126 ('84 300SD)? I emailed one company who I bought from before, who supplies OE parts only. They claim that Febi/Bilstein makes these (both the lower balljoints and the upper control arm/balljoint set)... I thought it was Lemfroeder...

Anyone know for sure?

Any one of those three will work fine.

I used Lemfoerder on the lower ball joints over a year ago and they are like new still.
http://www.diymbrepair.com/FrontSuspension/balljoint/

I just put Febi upper control arms in last month. Supposedly their OEM.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

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******** AZ sells Lemfoerder lower balljoints, and they are saying it's Mercedes OE and require the special Mercedes tool, whereas other balljoints like TRW do not... Hmmm.

Speaking of balljoint tools... I've read a few threads on that and it sounds confusing how to make a tool for this. I think I'll try to get these pressed out and then pressed in at a machine shop rather than making a special tool... Are they easier to press once the control arm is removed?

ALL balljoints have to be pressed in. I have never heard of anyone making a tool. that sounds kinda dangerous to me.
I used and have heard lots of other people using the AutoZone rental press.

Did you read the link I posted earlier?

danny

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That is total BS.

To remove the balljoint, you wail on it from the bottom with a 2# sledge and a mandrel (easier to do with the knuckle clamped in a vice on your workbench); toto install it, I used a generic (read Chinese) balljoint installation clamp/press thing from Harbor Freight. I think it cost about $30. I'm no fan of Harbor Freight but that clamp/press has been the best money I've spent on suspension tools. I think the one I have is the fundamentally the same as AutoZone's rental press.

I made an arbor-type puller out of all thread to install the LCA bushings in my 126's control arms. Worked well too. OTOH, the über special, $95 SirTools balljoint separator I bought from Samstag Sales broke the second time I used it and my SirTools spring compressor is showing disturbing amounts of wear after barely a year of intermittent use.

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I read it. Nice work indeed. But I'm not really clear on how the balljoint is seated or how it's best to pop it. On the Saab, I just banged on the neck of the tapered opening where the ball was seated - it poped right out. But it's hard to tell whether the same trick will work on the Benz without damaging the knuckle... I think I'll be clearer on it once I have a good look at it and start working on it, or maybe have a look at the service manual

When you say 2-lb sledge, is this what you're referring to?

dannym - where did you source the new locknuts for the tie rod ends?

Yep. Mine isn't a $50 Rockler and has a shorter handle.

But, I strongly recommend taking a long hard look at the FSM before pulling anything apart or banging on it with one of those.

In short, to remove the BJ, you support the knuckle upside down with a vice, place a mandrel (mine looks a lot like a 1" socket ) against the bottom (actual) of the BJ and then wail on the mandrel with the sledge...wail hard! In fairly short order, the BJ will start to creep out of the knuckle.

Installation is done with the giant c-clamp thing from Harbor Freight. You can do the placement and initial tightening on the bench and then when you have to really apply torque to seat the BJ, clamp the knuckle in a vice. First, take the boot off of the BJ and set the BJ in place in the knuckle (a little diesel or kerosene on the mating surface between BJ and knuckle will help this slide together). Place the bottom of the clamp on the upper part of the BJ and you'll have to use the clamp's spacers on the underside to have something to press against. When you get it all positioned correctly (BJ straight in the opening) start tightening the clamp...continue until the BJ is fully seated. Reinstall the boot. Done.

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I didn't I used the old ones.
If you really want I'm sure Ace Hardware sells them.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Sometimes I get an oscillation in the front wheel when I hit a pothole just right. Just the side that hit the pothole. Now I know its hard to do an Internet diagnosis, but is the ball joint one of the suspect components? What else should be checked?

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Prime suspects would be: idle arm bushing, tie rod ends, steering damper...but, probably not balljoints

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

And upper control arms and sway bar bushings.

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

There's a tool for pressing in W126 balljoints going on eBay for about $80-90 made by JTC Tools (Taiwan)...

Here's a picture:



Looks a bit expensive... Is Harbor Freight press really good enough for this?

I can't tell you anything about that particular tool, but I have one of the Harbor Freight shop presses and it is a pretty good product. Been very useful for a variety of things that you just can't do by hand or with a vise.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles