Guide Rods Replacement? I read whunters DIY
 

Hello,

I'm thinking of doing this job but wanted to get some feedback on it first prior to doing the job.

Yes, the noise is horrible. I live on Graveled Roads to boot.

I noticed that if I'm going down a bumpy incline and apply the brakes slightly the knocking goes away completely. This would eliminate Ball Joints I'm thinking. What do you guys think?

I'd call the sound a Fluttering Clanking! Not exactly like a simple Ball Joint failure sounds.

Am I correct on this?

Steve

These are symptoms I noticed on mine.............
 

With worn guide rod mounts, you can sometimes feel it just below your feet, due to where they are mounted. Also, they are most noticable when braking.

Ball joints, try to 'track" uneven pavement and have a sideways motion going over bumps.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for reply,

Since I can get the noise to go away during down hill bumpy driving with brakes slightly applied I'm thinking GR's.

Steve

Guide Rods have been replaced and a few other Rubbers the mechanic said were bad. Much better.

Bottom Line: If you have graveled roads and you have a knock and you can make it go away when applying brakes going down hill you have bad Guide Rods.

But who the heck live on graveled roads besides me.

I'm 2 kilometers down a unmade road (very rough, big potholes). The 240TD is our daily driver - it does the track up to 4 (or more) times a day. No better way of checking for suspect suspension parts... ...
Giles

up from the dead.....

glad you got it sorted out- I hope it did not take 2 1/2 years to change them??

Old eagle eye :rolleyes:. I didn`t notice the age of this thread.

yeah you don`t need a gravel Rd., when we bought the 84SD 5 yrs ago it drove really nice. Paid the guy the money, then it started knocking when the brakes were applied. amazing how that works.

Charlie

WOW... Did you wait that long to do this?

I'm getting ready to do this crap to my car here in a few days. Both rear mounts are shot and they are not very old. They are still gold colored.

One thing I have found... You can actually check them without jacking the car. Mine are so worn out I can just grab the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position, rock the tire back/forth and see the rod moving in and out of the rear mount.

I plan to try to replace them without removing the spring or the LCA.

Note
 

You need a binder strap/come along for pulling the LCA forward (clearance issues), to replace them without removing the spring or the LCA

What do you suggest tying the strap off to for that, Whunter?

I'd seen someone use the body jack to push the LCA forward, but that seemed a little too "redneck" for my taste, especially with their warning that it could slip.

Not as bad a risk as having the spring compressor slip, but...


What about just dropping both guide rod mounts and the cross member free, changing them and then reinstalling the whole mess? (already going to be under the car, as a "new" engine is going in in the very near future.)

I had an Indy do mine as I pictured myself ending up in the Hospital. Yes, I waited 2 years since car was not used and I lost interest in it for awhile. It took the Indy all day pretty much to do the 2 god rods, engine mounts, and a Big Rubber on the Left, the 4 inch one that was in the Guide Rod mount. I was afraid to drive it before as it was.

These cars can be bears without a shop and lift.

I had picked up a '89 BMW325i that is allot of fun to drive but time to go back to the Benz. I switch back and forth as I find all cars boring after a year or two. Today I have to put a Radial Seal in the power steering pump.

I've use a strap up around the bumper mount to help align the sway bar to UCA joint.

Rather than pull everything forward, wary of stress on the lower control arm bushings, etc., I attached a come-along from front to rear and pulled the main bolts for the entire carrier assembly and lowered it for access. The car was on ramps so the weight of the car took care of spring tension and the come-along held things in alignment front to rear.

Do you got a picture of that?

Did you jack the car to get the clearance after it was on ramps?

I'm having a hard time visualizing that.

Answer
 

Use two binder straps (second one for safety) from the bumper mount to the lower control arm, this pulls the arm forward, and tilts the guide rod tube down (away) from the body = better access.
The guide rod mount assembly must come off the body for rebuild.