I wouldn't panic yet, it's very unlikely you have a "bad engine." Sometimes you just have to get everything adjusted correctly, especially is the PO didn't keep up with it.

I don't know these guys in Thornton, myself. I would recommend that you see what they have to say, and check back with us if they recommend anything that sounds too expensive.

My girl can be doggy when cold. I go easy on her 'till she's warmed up. If I was you I would just drive it and not worry.

__________________
1984 TDT Blue on Blue "Harriet"
314,143 9/29/05- Our first date
351,000 12/29/08- Oh, the places we have gone!

1991 SDL Black on Palomino "Winchester the III"
188,655 8/11/07
218,700 12/29/08

Work vehicles:
MCI-
D4500 125k
D4505 200k
102A-3 1.8Million! and my fav

I had the same problem. I had a car shipped in from out of state. Drove it home from the drop off point and it was a super dog. 85 300D I thought something was seriously wrong, especially after I drove someone elses 300D which was night and day different from a power perspective. I finally found the problem. The vacuum hose mentioned in the first response had popped off the banjo fitting at the rear of the intake manifold. I pushed it back on and the car took off like a bandit. Look for a danging hose in the vicinity of the rear of the valve cover. Mine kept falling off so I replaced it with some EGR plastic vacuum line I found at Advanced Auto and I have never had an issue since.

Don't give up on this car. Although they built like tanks, they do have small issues that will develop from age. This site really helped me flush them out and address all of them. If you're handy, you can find parts relatively easy and the repair costs are reasonable.

I've worked on the car this weekend - in summary, after some work the car drives a little better now but it's still very slow from a dead stop - need suggestions for what to do next.

Here's what I've done so far:

1) I've cleaned the Banjo bolt and replaced the pressure line from Banjo bolt to the Switchover Valve on the firewall AND from the switchover valve to the ALDA.

2) Next, I've completely bypassed the switchover valve by running a pressure line directly from the banjo to the ALDA - then I went for a ride...

Without that valve in place the car was once again slow as a slug until about 2200rpm and then the turbo really kicked in and it started accelerating just fine - finally! Made me happy...

3) Next, I've cleaned that old switchover valve as best as I could and hooked eveything backup. Went for a ride WITH the valve in place.

This time the car did NOT accelerate as nicely as before (WITHOUT the valve) - so sounds like I may need to replace this valve on the firewall...

In summary, the car still accelerates like a slug from a dead stop (with or without the valve). Once it reaches 2200rpms the turbo starts to spool-up and the car begins to accelerate pretty good - such that I can at least keep up with traffic and not bring it to a standstill as before.

Note that I did NOT adjust the ALDA yet for two reasons: 1) I'm not sure how to take that cap off without destroying it. And 2), I've read on another post that I should NOT mess with the ALDA adjustment until I've cleaned the overboost protection valve - which I cannot get off as I don't yet have 27mm wrench.

What should I do next to try to improve the slug like performace off the start - anything?!

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Great car you have. However at 21 years old and probably some neglect, it's like one Big Puzzle. You should probably change out the vacuum lines and change out the glow plugs, besides all that you've done. It's probably time they were changed anyway. You may also want to change out fuel filters and possilby flushing the IP. Good Luck!

Is there any slack in the accelerator pedal cable? BT, DT..

Valve slack properly adjusted with the engine cold?

Not sure what you mean by BT/DT, but YES, it feels like it sure needs a throttle linkage adjustment (have not plunged into that yet - anyone got tips/links on 'how-to'?).

Also, Valve job is next on my list - just got to get the feeler guage and two of the 14mm wrenches. Already got a new valve gasket sourced.

Would like to check the camshaft timing while I got the valve cover off, but the the procedure in the link below is a little over my head at this point... (http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch)

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Without the engine running, have someone floor the accelerator pedal while you watch the linkage, to make sure you're getting true full-throttle when you push the pedal all the way down.

Also... someone may have already covered this one, but.... is the transmission starting in 1st? Once you start moving, there should be three distinct gear changes. The bowden cable (runs from the throttle linkage on top of the valve cover to the tranny) might need adjustment.

Mike

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1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
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1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

www.myspace.com/mikemover
www.myspace.com/openskystudio
www.myspace.com/speedxband
www.myspace.com/openskyseparators
www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic

For the most part, even here in the warmer Denver mornings, you'll need to let the car 'warm up' for about 5 minutes before you move it. Just enough to get the oil up into the engine which always feels 'tight' at start up.

Give it a week or so of idling at startup and you'll see it's all normal.

Where in the metro are ya? I'm in Littleton. . .

__________________
Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)

Been There, Done That

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I'm in Westminster (about 112th and Federal)...

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Right - I'm suspecting that it's NOT starting in 1st... need to look into the Bowden Cable adjustment... I've seen it on top of my valve cover but thought it was the cruise control - how do you ajust it?! Is there a 'how-to' link?!

James

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Well, I finally did it - I was despearate...

I broke the tamper seal of the ALDA, carefully loosened the retaining nut and gave it 3/4 turn CCW - went for a ride... WOW - what a difference.

Before, the car sputtered, inched forward and accelerated like a slug - after the adjustment, it really is like night and day - it takes off nicely and acceleration has good 'snap' to it - so happy I got it going with all your help - thank you!

Driving to work tomorrow - finally...

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K