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Trans. Modulator Vacuum Question
I have a really hard first shift and have been looking at my vacuum system. I can't for the life of me figure out where the line that goes to the modulator is supposed to connect to. That white plastic thing, sometimes called the transducer, that sits on the IP? It seems all the lines leading out of that go to the firewall. I haven't been able to locate a line that seems to be going to the tranny modulator.
I have looked over the vac diagrams supplied by phantom s, but none of them seem to coincide exactly with what I'm seeing under the hood. I've done a lot of searching and my head is spinning with vacuum info. right now. It is just my first upshift that it really clunky, BTW. Sometimes the next shift is also rough. All other shifts, including downshifts, are smooth and barely noticeable. It never flares and the clunkiness of the first two upshifts differ based on throttle and outside temp. Less throttle=less clunky for the first shift, with the second seeming to like a little more throttle, but not too much. It's less clunky when warm. I have a leak in my brake booster line too, I think. When I tested the check valve it fluctuated betwen 20 and 22 and wouldn't stay steady. Areas down the line from there have low vacuum but give a steady reading. If this was my only problem, though, wouldn't all my shifts have some trouble?
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
#2
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The vac line that goes to the tranny modulator is black, and it starts at a three way that is connected to the vacuum control valve on the rear of the injection pump. The line drops back behind the rear of the engine and the firewall.
It sounds more like you may be needed a B2 piston and maybe a K-1 spring, instead of it being a vac problem. But before you tear into that make sure you vac system is all sealed and tight. Try plugging off the lines that go to the magic black bow on the top of the valve cover. That may help the situation too. Also check your tranny fluid and maybe do a fluid and filter change. 20-22" on the vac pump is in the good range for the pump. If it is jumpy you may not have had a good seal with the gauge. If there was a leak down the line somewhere it would be a constant on and the reading would be consistantly low.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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You need to look at your whole vacuum system, maybe this will help.
http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesvacuumtroubleshooting.htm
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1981 300D 147k 1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k 1979 300D 234k (sold) 1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold) Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair ![]() |
#4
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try the 300 SD California by phantom
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#5
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Andrew - When I tested the vacuum on the check valve on the brake booster line I know I had a good seal on both ends, so I'm going to go ahead and replace the line. What also makes me think I have a leak there is the fact that the reading for the part of the booster line going into the brake cylinder is only 17 hg, and the reading going into the green dashpot before the transducer is only 8 hg, but my vac pump is evidently producing 20 hg at least.
I think I saw that black line you're talking about, but I thought I saw it connected to the exhaust manifold somewhere. I don't have any vacuum components on my valve cover but I do have vac lines going to my EGR which I haven't tested yet. I'm not sure if a PO modified this or if the car came without the vaccuum elements on the valve cover, I think some of them did but I'm not sure. If it used to be there, all traces have disappeared. I will have to read about the B2 piston. I've heard of it but know nothing about it. I've read a little about the K-1 kit but I thought the symptom for needing that fix was flairing. I've been trying to check my tranny fluid level, but I keep failing! First I read in the owner's manual that if the fluid is cold, the level will be 12 mm below where it would normally be. Well I checked it and it appeared to be WAY overfilled. I did some research and a lot of people on here said that's what the dipstick will read when the fluid is cold. Makes me wonder why the owner's manual says what it says. I checked it again today after just getting the engine up to temp., and it still read way high. I did some more research and it turns out I have to drive at least 10-15 miles before I can get an accurate reading. So I'll check it after work tomorrow. I don't suspect a fluid problem because I don't have any slipping, but I'll check to be sure. DG, your trouble-shooting page is great and has been invaluable to me, thanks a lot. 85, I have looked over the 85 SD diagram as I figured it's the one that will relate to my car the most. I guess it is, I will just have to look a little hrder for that line. Thanks for the help.
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
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========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#9
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You should have a vacuum diagram for your car!
I did not search your thread to see if you mentioned whether you have the vacuum diagram for your engine/transmission... and if you don't, check at the following website under "Vacuum Schematics" in the left side of the opening page... see if you can find one for your year/model/engine.
http://www.peterschmid.com/ There are other transmission related reference material there also! Sam |
#10
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Well I'll be getting a new brake bosoter hose this week. I guess I'll put that in and then see what happens. Hopefully the vac modulator will get the proper vacuum then. It's definitely not getting it now as the reading both before and after the green dashpot in front of the transducer/vac. control valve is 8 hg.
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Ralph 1985 300D Turbo, CA model 248,650 miles and counting... |
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