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  #16  
Old 05-30-2006, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon
removing the oil cooler lines involves jacking the engine up yes? just removing them from the housing is all id need to do.. and the filter housing gasket will need replacing while im there to get it out of the way.. ill loose about a quart of oil doing this i bet..
There is no need to jack up the engine if you are not replacing the oil cooler lines. Just disconnect them from the oil filter housing (which is more difficult than it looks.)

If you remove the oil filter housing lid and lift the filter slightly, the oil in the filter will drain back into the block. That way you won't lose much oil at all when the filter housing comes off.

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  #17  
Old 05-30-2006, 09:38 AM
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now all i need is to locate an expandable rubber freeze plug.
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2006, 09:59 AM
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You can get the rubber plugs at any mc parts but thats Jerry Rig. Get the correct plug and never think about it again.
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2006, 10:20 AM
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im probably going to get the right plug.. i was under the car and i cant fit my hand up between the IP and block.. not enough room even for a finger to go .. but i can easily access the bottom bolt with my hand.. $1.50 for a freeze plug.. if im going to replace this thing and go through all i might as well do it myself instead of mb tech charging 100$ an hour

Last edited by TheDon; 05-30-2006 at 10:38 AM.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2006, 12:50 PM
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Location: North Central Kentucky
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BTW, when Sady was putting the bolt in from the bottom, he was laying in grass, gravel and a bit of mud as I recall. Extra points for lack of concern for self and clothing. Young people can be just fearless. Sometimes that actually is a good thing. And I will vouch for his ability to get the bracket and bolts right. I think there probably is a way to do it all from the bottom, just need to make a couple of tools to do it. Rack damper bolt does have to come out. Just mark the pump and bolt and count turns and flats.

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