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Considering buying a '83 300 CDT Advice needed
I'm considering buying a 83 300 CDT and plan on inspecting it this Monday. It's suppose to be real clean in and out, 143,000 miles. Body wise I know what to look for, I've previously owned two 123 gas models.
Mechanically, specifically being a turbo diesel what should I be on the look out for? Don't know much about turbo's or diesels. I've never owned a turbo diesel and need some pointers on possible faults to look for. All suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Question Authority before it Questions you. Last edited by 450slcguy; 06-03-2006 at 07:28 PM. |
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#2
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blow by... with engine running either cold or hot take the oil cap.. loosen it and let it dance.. the more dancing the worse the blow by.. it also depends on if the engine is hot or cold..
the turbo.. if you can remove the U-tube and with the engine cold and off reach in and spin it.. does it spin freely? if so its good.. then check for shaft play ..check the coolant resevoir for coolant color and any oil floaring .. green colant bad.. mine has it i know bad.. but no oil.. service records etc etc any other questions.. you know where to find me
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#3
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The '83 should be a great year to buy. Lots of time proven components. High dollar thing to check is the climate control. Make sure the A/C is working properly or deduct as much as you can from the price ($500. to $1000.) Pull the trans dip stick,ck the oil color(red) and take some oil and rub it between your fingers and smell it to make sure it doesn't smell burned.When driving the car, ck for crisp, firm shifts. These transmissions can have a bit of "flair" when shifting from second to third. The CD's can leak through the side window glass. Ck how the front and rear side glass come together at the seal.
Before I EVER start a car I am looking at, I check the engine oil level. It will be black but I want it at the full mark. Look at the lower front ball joints and see if the grease boots are torn or missing. Ck the tie rods for the same. The ball joints aren't easy for a "Do-it-yourselfer" If you feel unsure about inspecting the car, The BEST money you will spend will be having a mechanic or Mercedes specialist inspect the car BEFORE you buy
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
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#4
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and a good diesel will start right up and idle smoothly. now a 617 is a five cylinder and the engine will hop up and down a bit at idle but the firing will be smooth if the cylinders are all firing equally. it will smoke black a bit on heavy acceleration or pulling a hill. it should shift smoothly but firmly with no slipping.
engine tranny and body are the things to check. good luck tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#5
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WHat is a : "CDT" ? Coupe, Diesel, Transport????
P E H |
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#6
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#7
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Of course, if I were selling a leaky car, it would be easy enough to top off the oil before each prospective buyer... |
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#8
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TheDon,
Then how come I don't have a 300SDT or 300SDLT? MB should get their designations straight. P E H Last edited by P.E.Haiges; 06-04-2006 at 12:21 PM. Reason: typo |
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#9
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123 Coupes are rare, and coupe specific parts are priced accordingly. I would take a close look at interior panels, seats, window glass, door seals, rear window operation, etc.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
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#10
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BTW guys,
There is no such thing as a 300CDT, neither 300DT nor 300TDT !!!!!! a 1983 300CD is mandatorily a turbo charged car anywhere in the world. 300CD's only existed in the USA and since 81 they were all, without exception turbo. So you on't need to precise that it is a turbo. Similar remark for all USA spex 300D and 300TD. since 1982 they are all without exception turbo. Only euro spex 300D could be found in naturally aspirated version after 82.
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------------------------------------------ Aquilae non capunt muscas! (Eagles don't hunt flies!) 1979 300SD Black/Black MBtex239000mi 1983 300TD euro-NA. White/Olive Cloth-MBtex 201000mi. Fleet car of the USA embassy in Morocco 1983 240D Labrador Blue/Blue MBtex 161000mi |
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#11
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
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#12
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"300CD's only existed in the USA and since 81 they were all, without exception turbo." All 82+ were turbo. Only the 300TD got the turbo in 81. |
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#13
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i beleive some coupes got the turbo in 81 too according to my mb buyers guide at least.
although the point about all 300cds being turbocharged after 82 is a good one, mb does refer to them all of the turbos by adding a t after the name that appears on the trunk, i believe, so it doesnt seem like something to catch someone on. imho. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#14
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I've always wondered about people who put the "T" after the "D", "CD", or "T" but that's what my state title lists my car as, a "DT", or maybe a "D-T".
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Seth 1984 300D 225K 1985 300D Donor body 1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!! 1980 300SD 311K My New Baby. 1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo |
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#15
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