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  #16  
Old 04-15-2001, 09:45 PM
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DREADED DRIP METHOD

I stayed up past midnight-started at nine--doing the IP shuffle. I'm not what I used to be and feel like I spent that time in an NFL game. It took awhile to find that elusive bolt at the rear of the IP and then found out why a dad shouldn't try this at home. I didn't simply reject the drip tube but figured I'd at least come clost to finding out if the thing was anywhere near right to start with.
I took off the injector supply pipe and dried out the pump outlet. I cranked her around and didnt get a spit until about four degrees BTDC. I took off the rest of the supply tubes and pushed it forward to the limit and still only got about eighteen degrees BTDC. That has to be a big improvement so I'm going to live with it for awhile and see what happens. It has reduced the idle smoke, upped the rattling at idle and improved early torque. A tank of fuel will tell on the mileage. No high temps on full bore running. These are probably the areas to keep an eye on.

Now, the question: If, by quirk of fate and simple ineptness, I have gone too far in advance, what would be the symptoms and how soon should I call 911? (I had the vacuum advance off and the throttle full open for the test)
It starts fine with no symptom of kicking back on the starter like an ignition fired engine when the timing is too early. Bill L. put me straight on the adjustment but I faked it a bit. Any tips?? (And, BTW, I replaced the speedometer cable too. Went in like a champ once I got the hang of it.)
Steve

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  #17  
Old 04-15-2001, 10:54 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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Steve,
You say you have the timing at 18 degrees BTDC. That's 6 degrees off, but maybe good enough so you don't have to remove the pump. That can be a big job.
I don't understand when you say you removed the vacuum advance timing when you tested the engine. I know of no vacuum advance for the timing. Timing advance for MB diesels is done by the injection timer connected to the front of the injection pump. The timing is advanced by centrifugal force, and max. advance is only about 8 degrees.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Bill Lewallen; Lexington,Ky.
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2001, 08:00 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Havin Fun At Midnight

Greetings Steve,

I know the adventure with the IP start of delivery adjustment well. I also know the fun of removing the filter housing and pulling the pump to retime it. Putting it all back together and then still having to do the drip test is probably the easiest part of the whole thing. Steve, if you cheated by doing the Baylor start of delivery method,the key word in their description was that the fuel just begins to well up in the fuel pipe fitting bowl. If you waited for it to squirt fuel out of the pipe you are to far advanced when looking at your balancer. The Baylor method takes into account that the fuel line should be filled with fuel like the engine was running, and when there is the slightest pressure increase on that injector line it simulates the start of fuel delivery and opening of that fuel port for fuel injection. On my last go around I used the drip method to time my pump, but didn't recheck how it compared to the Baylor method degree wise accuracy that is. Along with other things I need to do tommorrow, I will see if the degrees on the balancer comes out to be quite close to the same. If so we have found an easier way to drip time without the drip tube.

P.S. Bill I think he meant he pulled the shutoff vac line off the pump when timing his IP, which is correct procedure by the book that is.

Charles
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2004, 04:37 PM
sdelasal
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The bit that bothers me in the method described at ...
http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/iptiming.htm

is the line ...Remove the #1 injection line. [Don't take anything off of the injection pump except the injector pipe. If you even __think__ of removing anything else (e.g., the nuts that hold the valves to the top of the pump body), you will regret it!] .....


Reson bein is that for the 'drip method' I believe you have to ' take something off in addition to the injector line' - so being cautious and not wanting to screw things up I not tried the 'drip method' for fear of having to unscrew more than the injector pipe.

I realise my fears are irrational but why the warning above then...?


Steve
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2004, 05:22 PM
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Steve

"Injection Pump Timing Method from The Star "

I totolly agree with Ricks article from the Star. You must remember to DISCONNECT the vacuum line at the vac shut switch on the IP tho. This method is easy and your not spilling fuel all over the place.

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