Why not? There are people who advocate removing the EGR and plugging it up completely with a plate.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

He wouldn't sell any levers.........

Tough! I think selling more plates is better than selling more levers. He really should update that procedure to tell people to first test if the 3/2 valve and levers are leaking before replacing them. It is possible and more likely that there are leaks elsewhere and replacing the levers alone will not fix transmission shifting problems. I think just bypasing that damm black box or getting rid of it altogether is the best course of action.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Well, for those of us in states that don't require diesels to have EGR equipment or are exempt after a certain age, it makes sense. But, I believe there are a few states which still require emissions tests for old diesels, so doing so may render your car unpassable to the emissions testers, unless you are cool with the guy or something.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

It is unfortunate. The levers are fairly pricey and they simply achieve a properly running EGR system. He knows that such a system is undesirable for the long term.

I don't believe that there is any state that can detect a missing EGR valve with the exception of those that have very knowledgeable personnel who would realize that the valve is missing underhood. With the design of the plate, I'd bet against that as well.

Hello all. I wanted your input before I do what I'm thinking. After tweaking my trans, I still have a too-hard 1-2 shift. After thinking of ways to soften it without causing flare in the other shifts, I've wondered about the length of the rocker arm from the throttle linkage to my VCV. On mine, I have about 15-20 degrees of play before my VCV bleeds vacuum. My rocker arm is set to eliminate those degrees of play, so that immediately on throttle my VCV begins to bleed. What if I readjusted the length of the rocker arm so that my VCV retained those 15-20 degrees of play before bleeding vacuum. Would this soften the 1-2 shift without flaring the others? What do you think? I'm asking because I imagine - given how tight it is behind my VCV - that it's going to be a bear to get that rocker arm off. To my mind, that would keep the most vacuum to my trans during acceleration from stop, hopefully making the 1-2 shift (right now occurring at 2400 rpm) softer.

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Rev. Jeff Hayes
New owner, 1982 300D Turbo, 214,000 miles

The rocker arm is set properly. Don't try to misadjust it.

If the VCV on that vehicle is adjustable, then attempt to raise the vacuum level slightly........by 2" or so.........and see if the 1-2 will soften a bit without causing flare on the 2-3. It's a bit of a balancing act. But, older 617's will all have a harsh 1-2. This was subsequently corrected in '84 with different valve body springs.

You can also adjust the Bowden cable for earlier shifts. If the 1-2 occurs at 1900 rpm, it will be much more tolerable than if it occurs at 2500 rpm.

After correcting the few loose vacuum connections, my transmission is shifting 100x better. The car also seems peppier and more responsive. Is the extra power for real or just my imagination.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I came across an old vacuum schematic which shows a switchover valve (w/lever) that functions to control the transmission. (It shows a mess of lines leading to the top of the VCV.) Neither of my cars operate this way, and it was probably a really early model (not specified on the sheet), but it did seem to exist at one point in the production of these cars.

I will see if I can dig it up again...

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Some vehicles, prior to 1981 I believe, definitely used one of those vacuum levers for transmission control.

The only vehicles that I'm positive for which you can remove the entire affair are the 1982-1984 vehicles with the 617.

Here's some info on the orifices from the dealer. The yellow one was quoted at $1.70, red was $11.00! Blue is $1.20, white is no longer available, and brown is $3.70. I don't know about green at the moment.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

With a lathe and metric drill bits, I can easily make any size orifice out of Nylon or Delrin. Getting the colors to match is a problem tho.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

My transmission shifts way way too late

I don't have a tach but by ear it sounds like 3000-4000 for the 1-2. You just wait and wait for the thing to shift, sometimes doesn't even want to.

There is a green dashpot connected to a beige "thing" next to the IP. I tested the supply to this and at idle, its 0. When you rev it up, it goes to 5. This doesn't seem normal. What should be happening here?

This is on an old Buick?